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#1
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oh i like that pressure washer idea. may get some of the crap out from under the tank as well. id rather find out the tank leaks while the boat is on the trailer than when im miles from home. i dont need a whole lot of range, boat will probably be used primarily for tubing/possible light fishing/ticesmobile. i think tices is like 3 miles from me. im prettymuch across the bay.
if i were to pull the tank and it checks out ok how would i go about re-installing it? what kind of foam do you guys use? and i would probable replace the pvc pipe with a larger diameter one (to help prevent clogs [at least in my mind]) and glass the pipe in around the opening to prevent water from getting into the foam. is that a good idea or would that be a no no? 
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#2
04-02-2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
As to the tank, if you're just looking to hold it in place then Great Stuff or any aerosol foam will do. However, if you want the added flotation of the foam, then you'll have to buy one of the kits you can find on eBay made for underdeck flotation. Just remember that ALL foam, no matter what brand or kind, will eventually absorb water and hold it like a sponge. That in turn will add weight to your boat, plus it will rot out any wood under the deck, including your flooring and stringers. So what you really want, is to try with all your might to keep your underdeck area DRY!!!... Seal all cracks, holes (including through the gunnel rod holders) and basically anyplace else you can think of that might let water into the underdeck area.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#3
04-04-2014, 03:43 PM
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That sounds good. Didnt think of using 5200. Ive been thinking a lot lately about fabricating a central drain system like newer vikings have. Its basically 1 1.5 inch length of waste hose run along the port and stbd gunwale, slightly downhill, leading to a through hull aft. You plumb anything you want to drain into the hose. Vikings use it for a/c discharge, bulge pump discharge, shower box discharge, etc. It would work great on our boats for the same reason. Plumb the rod holders and anything else you want in there, install a through hull, and never worry about it again. Ive also been think about building a hybrid self bailing deck/showerbox system where id tee off the self bailing drain hose, install a ball valve, and run it to a showerbox (a sealed box things can drain into with a bilge pump and float switch to pump it out. This way you can drain things low and pump it out to a through hull placed up high). It like to consolidate things and be able to seal the bailers for when my boat is sitting low in the water.
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#4
04-06-2014, 06:48 PM
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Do not go any higher than around 3 PSI, 20 PSI would blow your tank to bits. Pump her up and see if she holds. One possibility is the PO thought the tank was leaking when it was really just the fuel level sensor seal that went bad. When mine went out you would have thought the tank was cut in two so much fuel was able to pour out when accelerating.
If it does leak, as far as pulling the tank, a saws all run around the perimeter makes quick work of it. Wedge the chunks out with a nail puller or a wonder bar. Personally I would stick with the premix setup vs, the oiler.
__________________
 81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro
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#5
04-06-2014, 07:10 PM
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http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
They sell the foam you would be looking for. You would use a 4 LB foam underneath the tank and 2 LB on the sides. When I set my tank I used some blues styrofoam squares to get the tank at my ideal height and distance from the sides. Then used large clamps to keep the expanding from raising the tank as it expanded.
__________________
81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro
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#6
04-06-2014, 09:11 PM
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even 3 lbs could do serious damage to the tank, the boat, and possibly your body.. think about it that's 3 lbs of pressure for each square inch... if the tank were 50" x24"x 18" You would have 15,192 lbs of force at only 3 psi!
Places that pressure test fuel tanks use less than 1 psi often with the tank submerged to look for bubbles or have the tank in a special box that supports all sides and is strong enough to withstand the pressure My advice is that you completely forget pressure testing it or having it tested.... just rip it out and put in a new tank n be done with it. Last edited by smokeonthewater; 04-07-2014 at 09:14 AM.
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#7
04-07-2014, 10:08 AM
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When I tested my tank I tested at 3 psi. I personally wouldn't offer advice if I had not done the research. But don't take my word for it.
http://www.uscgboating.org/regulatio...rds_partq.aspx
__________________
81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro
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#8
04-07-2014, 11:52 AM
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__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20
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#9
04-07-2014, 03:50 PM
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just spoke with the previous owner yesterday... it was bypassed because the gas is a few years old and he didnt wanna clean it.. on to my next question. how do you thoroughly clean a tank with varnished gas?
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#10
04-08-2014, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
I wasn't intending to attack you... Just offering my own advice.... I too have a little experience with fuel tanks. Either way it sounds like maybe his tank is ok. BTW old gas can be easily burned 1 gallon at a time in an old coffee can
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