Trailer questions - Page 3

Joker2 · #21 10-16-2013, 07:59 PM

I installed keel roller and moved boat up. My question is how hard would it be to extend my tongue like 2'. Tires are load range C which can handle 1850 Each at 50 psi should be fine, my boat has new transom very dry sits very high in water, plus I carry very little in boat. Should not exceed 3,000 lbs even with gear, boat 1940 motor 400 gas 280 gear tops about 300 equals 2,920. Thanks for input

smokeonthewater · #22 10-16-2013, 08:08 PM

best option would be to replace the tongue with new tubing

cfelton · #23 10-16-2013, 09:43 PM

Yup, Im with smoke. Id lenghten the tongue out and move the boat up. The trailer I got was under a 26ft. Bayliner. Had tomove the axles and cut off about 4 ft.on the rear. I put 4 keel rollers, a set of cradle (wobble ) rollers under the bow and 8 ft bunks for the rear. It works great and is well supported.

Destroyer · #24 10-17-2013, 03:32 AM

Look carefully at your trailers tongue. Chances are you'll see that it's not welded but rather it's bolted to the rest of the trailer. Reason being is they (the trailer makers) expect people to have to make adjustments, plus welding galvanized is a pain and destroys the rust resistance of the metal at the weld site. So your easiest (and cheapest) option is simply to get a longer length of the same size galvanized rectangular tubing that's there already, unbolt your present tongue, measure and drill holes in the new tube (using the holes in the old tube as a guide), and then just install the new tube. It's almost harder to type it out than to actually do it.

Joker2 · #25 10-17-2013, 04:24 PM

Actually looking into adding 2' with a swing away kit, much cheaper than adding a new 8' piece of 3 X 4 tube and it comes with a new coupler. New tubing $230.00. Kit $140.00

smokeonthewater · #26 10-17-2013, 05:05 PM

don't shop for your tubing at a trailer parts store... go to a welding shop or metal supply house

the swing away is an option but not my preferred choice as it has some negatives.... It adds slop to the trailer, the winch stand MUST be mounted behind it... the jack must be mounted behind it... it is another potential area for failure....

I bought a 20' stick if non galvanized when I needed a longer tongue and I think it was around $100... steel has gone up some since then and you want it galvanized but then you don't need anywhere near 20'

Joker2 · #27 10-18-2013, 03:41 PM

I found a 7 - 1/2' 11 gauge piece of 3 X 4 tube steel new for $50 from a friends large truck repair shop. It will not be gal but I think it is ok, I will paint it up as it should never get saltwater on it. Almost there hopefully this will do it. The tube there now is 6' so I am adding 18".

phatdaddy · #28 10-18-2013, 05:07 PM

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...2#.UmGwSPl_6So

joker, use this stuff. it is amazing as far as protecting raw steel in a salt setting.

Joker2 · #29 10-19-2013, 06:19 AM

thanks

Destroyer · #30 10-19-2013, 11:45 AM

OMG!!! $100 a GALLON???? That stuff damn well better be the best around. That's an obscene price. Personally I'd just go with a 2 part epoxy coating at about half the cost.

Joker, when you are painting that tube, make sure you paint the INSIDE as well as the outside. Metal heats up and the air inside the tube expands... then as it cools it draws in air from outside... and that air is laden with salt. So, over time, the inside of that tube will rust out... and it won't take nearly as long as you think, cause you'll never wash out the inside of the tube, so the salt will lay inside there and do it's thing. That's why hot dipped galvanized is worth the few extra bucks. By the time you add in the cost of the paint, and your labor, most times you're spending more for bare steel than for galvanized.