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  #61  
Unread 10-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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mebbe think outside the box.... If you really want to maximise it then just make it the whole width of the boat and put the tabs on the bracket.... the further back, the more effective they are with less input... IE more efficient/faster
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  #62  
Unread 10-27-2012, 05:34 PM
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Good idea Smoke. But I am thinking the bracket will be out of the water when on plane. I have never owned a bracket boat so this is new. It will be 30" setback. But yeah, I have no problem mounting tabs on the bracket if they will still be effective. My bracket willbe 3" off the bottom of the boat.
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  #63  
Unread 10-27-2012, 06:14 PM
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If the bracket is out of the water then the tabs couldn't be on it.... maybe it should be even with the bottom of the boat with just the SLIGHTEST amount of rocker factored in to help lift the bow when tabs are retracted for max speed..... dunno.... might be virgin water here.
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  #64  
Unread 10-27-2012, 11:15 PM
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I have seen a few brackets custom made same as the hull, this way you 20 footer would be a 23 footer, then you can add the tabs to the bracket as its the same as the hull, not raised.
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  #65  
Unread 10-29-2012, 09:37 AM
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But wouldn't that be a hull extension, and not a bracket? The main reason I am going to bracket is for the performance and safety of a closed transom. I think if I take the bracket to the tabs that will be enough flotation. So 30" setback 44" wide and 20" tall with about 10" submerged. So thats ~550lbs flotation at normal water level and over a thousand if fully submerged. Minus the bracket weight.
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  #66  
Unread 10-30-2012, 09:23 AM
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On the pilot house, just doing some rough measuring. 44" off the windshield mounting suface gives me a couple inches over my head of clearance. Should I increase that to 48"? Also having a clearance issue with the front. If I follow the original windscreens angle that puts the windscreen and drivers head in the same spot. Its either angle the windshield up more or move the helm back. I am going to cut some plywood to mock one side of the pilothouse and see how it looks. I am thinking of doing a pilothouse roughly four or five feet back from the windscreen. I wont need a massive pilot house but it needs to allow clearance for access to my fishboxes with the back wall installed. The back wall will be a cold weather install. Otherwise its an open back. Any suggestions? Its hard figuring out how to make a pilothouse work on a 20' boat.
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  #67  
Unread 11-03-2012, 07:01 PM
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Scrap plywood mockup. Nobody use the b word!
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  #68  
Unread 11-03-2012, 08:53 PM
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That should work nice!! But with most CC, I have seen they have their house's
more to the rear of the boat, thats why CC ride better, not so much weight forward. But I am sure at this point you know what you're doing!! So I will
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  #69  
Unread 11-03-2012, 09:25 PM
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I'm gonna be honest...I liking it!!! Looks good dude.
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  #70  
Unread 11-03-2012, 09:45 PM
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Its 74" long at the gunnel, with the cap out of the hull it all looks out of proportion. Once I drop the cap back in, I will mount the mock up again. This was just to see how it would flow with the lines. Its 6' 3" headroom inside. Windows are 24" tall. I would like to make it longer butbI believe once the roof and front window mock is mounted, that It will all look better. Its really a simple design. The most complicated part is the actual windshield opening for the cuddy slide.
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