Replacing stringers while on Roller trailer - Page 2

cterrebonne · #11 07-09-2012, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

Very good point. Heck i would just set the bottom on some 2x? lumber laid flat. My V20 is on a cinder block topped with a 2x6 in the rear and a stack 3 cinder blocks high up front so it drains. I can step right into the splashwell at that height. Of course this is just for bottom paint stripping. (yeah i know its been three months) Once i get ready to remove the liner for the bracket build, it will be in the garage on 6x6s.

Dont cut your floor. Just pop the cap. In my opinion its easier to pop the cap then repair the floor.

That is what I hear its easier to remove the cap. The problem is I am not sure how I am going to put the cap back on afterwards. I might have to rent one of those really big fork lifts??

I have the 4x4's in the ground. I'll snap a photo tomorrow. As going low to the ground. I am not sure how easy it would be without using a large forklift or tractor with a loader or backhoe. Thats another 300 to rent i'm sure.

tartuffe · #12 07-09-2012, 09:21 PM

As far as getting the cap on and off you could easily build a couple really large saw horses and use a comealong and some ratchet straps. That large forklift will run you probably $3-5 hundred each time you have to bring it out including the delivery and pick-up. Lumber in building a lift will run less than $150 including a come-along. Will need to be about 8' tall to provide the necessary clearance.

Lift the cap, pull the boat out from under and lower.

As far as getting the boat off the trailer, I once used a strap that attached to to the rear corner of my trailer, the strap went to the bow and through the eye bolt that your winch attaches to and back to the opposite corner of the trailer back at the transom. I was able to winch the boat off using that method. I would put a good amount of pressure on the strap, go to the front and lift upon the boat and it would slide 5-6" and repeat.

cterrebonne · #13 07-10-2012, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartuffe

As far as getting the cap on and off you could easily build a couple really large saw horses and use a comealong and some ratchet straps. That large forklift will run you probably $3-5 hundred each time you have to bring it out including the delivery and pick-up. Lumber in building a lift will run less than $150 including a come-along. Will need to be about 8' tall to provide the necessary clearance.

Lift the cap, pull the boat out from under and lower.

As far as getting the boat off the trailer, I once used a strap that attached to to the rear corner of my trailer, the strap went to the bow and through the eye bolt that your winch attaches to and back to the opposite corner of the trailer back at the transom. I was able to winch the boat off using that method. I would put a good amount of pressure on the strap, go to the front and lift upon the boat and it would slide 5-6" and repeat.

large saw horses, I like that idea. I would just have to make them pretty sturdy. You wouldn't know how much the cap weighs?

tartuffe · #14 07-10-2012, 09:13 AM

Without the hatch covers its probably close to a little over 400 LBS. Also, once you get the engine, cap, tank, and water-soaked foam out, the hull does not weigh very much. It will be much easier to slide off the trailer.

cterrebonne · #15 07-10-2012, 11:29 AM

That doesn't sound too heavy. I guess the worst part will be disconnecting the drain hoses.

Destroyer · #16 07-10-2012, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cterrebonne

That doesn't sound too heavy. I guess the worst part will be disconnecting the drain hoses.

Naa.. the worst part will be digging out the water soaked foam... That stuff does not like to let go, is strong and if it's anything like mine was it will stink to high heaven.

tartuffe · #17 07-10-2012, 05:07 PM

I took pictures of everything I could take a picture of. Every electrical fitting, every place fiberglass came together, I included rulers to get a sense of scale. I figure it will help when I hook everything back up. I've referenced many pics that where completely insignificant when I took them but have proven a big help now.

You will end up with 15 lbs of screws, nuts and bolts. I put mine in about 100 ziplocs with a slip of paper labeling what it was for. Go through it like a crime scene. Each screw you save will be $0.35. Even if you want to replace it, save it.

Yeah water soaked foam, my worst part was figuring out what to do with it all. What year is your boat? You may be lucky.

jasoncooperpcola · #18 07-10-2012, 05:25 PM

Stupid question, can you dry the foam out, cut it up some, then foam it back in with the new foam? It does seem like it would make the new foam go further.

cterrebonne · #19 07-10-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartuffe

I took pictures of everything I could take a picture of. Every electrical fitting, every place fiberglass came together, I included rulers to get a sense of scale. I figure it will help when I hook everything back up. I've referenced many pics that where completely insignificant when I took them but have proven a big help now.

You will end up with 15 lbs of screws, nuts and bolts. I put mine in about 100 ziplocs with a slip of paper labeling what it was for. Go through it like a crime scene. Each screw you save will be $0.35. Even if you want to replace it, save it.

Yeah water soaked foam, my worst part was figuring out what to do with it all. What year is your boat? You may be lucky.

1989 is the year.

cterrebonne · #20 07-10-2012, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

Stupid question, can you dry the foam out, cut it up some, then foam it back in with the new foam? It does seem like it would make the new foam go further.

I don't plan on putting any foam in the boat with the exception of maybe by the fuel tank.