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#1
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The radio and the stereo both are electronic units and don't draw much current. The livewell, on the other hand, has a pump that draws significant current compared to the other two. I would run the livewell off a different battery than the one that I use for starting my engine.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#2
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Subscribed! I'm stuck on this thread like glue. Doesn't somebody want to draw a schematic for showing bus bar hook UPS and that sort of stuff? LOL!!!!
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#3
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Thank you everyone for all the helpful tips! I hope to be finishing this project this weekend I've been busy working. Damn work getting in the way of my fun!
__________________
1989 V20 With a Yamaha 130hp "True strength is not measured at your strongest, but at your weakest." |
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#4
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Just a quick question. I've heard a lot about how great the Optima marine batteries are. Would they eliminate the need for a second battery? Is it more battery for the electronics and all of that? Does anyone use them and any feedback would be great.
Thank you
__________________
1989 V20 With a Yamaha 130hp "True strength is not measured at your strongest, but at your weakest." |
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#5
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Quote:
No matter how good the battery, the second serves more for the piece of mind that if when you turn that ignition after being at anchor for a while and hear that dreaded "click click click," you have another option.
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81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro |
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#6
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Quote:
So, what kind of a battery should you get? Well, only you can decide that, but, thanks to the internet, we can at least get a few guidelines. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The Wet cell comes in two styles; Serviceable and Maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and are basicly the same. (I prefer one that I can add water to and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer). The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. If you want the best,most versatile type, consideration should be given to the AGM battery for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few. The Optima battery you asked about is an AGM battery Now lets look at how batteries are rated. CCA, CA, AH and RC. What are these all about? These are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery. Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement. CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80 ° F. Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts. An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. The standard rating is an Amp rating taken for 20 Hours. What this means, say for a 100 AH rated battery is this: Draw from the battery for 20 hours and it will provide a total of 100 amps. That translates to about 5 amps an hour. 5 x 20 = 100. However, it's very important to know that the total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As your load increases, your realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharged that same 100 AH battery by a 100 amp load, it will not give you one hour of runtime. On the contrary, the perceived capacity of the battery will be that of 64 Amp Hours. So, we now know that AGM batteries are the best, and that if you want a good battery for your boat you should get one with a high RC and AH. And lastly, a few do's and don'ts Battery Do's
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#7
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You're the man, Destroyer!
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1995 V21 w/175 Evinrude E-Tec Morganville, New Jersey |
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#8
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So I'm hooking up the 2nd battery along with a perko switch. On the diagram it says to hook the starter into one of the ports on the back of the switch. I have a 1989 yamaha, is it the positIve cable coming from the engine to my battery now?
Thanks guys!
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1989 V20 With a Yamaha 130hp "True strength is not measured at your strongest, but at your weakest." |
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