Taking the plunge! - Page 5

ludacrous999b · #41 03-25-2012, 06:50 PM

Well, more reading on here has taught me the value of inspection. When this engine comes out, the sterndrive is going to fall off and find it's self available for resale. After drilling into the transom I have discovered very damp wood and some rot. This has gone from a service the engine to get her running and float around a while to a rip out of the bastage and a transom rebuild.

Objective: Have the transom repaired and ready for an outboard when I return from Korea. I have all summer to complete the project so the only limiting factor is cost. Questions to follow...

Game plan to this moment...

1. Remove the engine and sterndrive and sell them for whatever I can get. Parts are hard to come by so maybe I can get at least a few bucks.

2. The thought kicking around in my head is to cut the cap about 1 foot from the transom, cut down the inside and across the deck, then just remove that portion of the cap. This will give me inspection of the inside of the hull to determine if I need to go further forward with a cap removal, and access to the rear of the boat for the transom work.

3... Guess I'll be researching designs that have been successful for outboard conversions. Cut the design and get my hands dirty with some glass work.

If I remove the entire cap I'll have a much easier time with wiring and interior work wont I? Previous experience is appreciated. Welcome to suggestions, advice and laughter.

ludacrous999b · #42 03-26-2012, 06:24 PM

I SWEAR!!! I'm not touching anything else on that boat until I've done at LEAST 40 more hours of reading on here... Looking through old posts about cutting the transom down for an outboard application has led me to believe that I may be keel hauled at the very least for the transgression!

http://www.dhcampingandfishingsupply.com/61012.html

Thanks for the low cost, high adaptability option. Having not owned an outboard before or had much experience with them I figured the splash well option would be best, but the word on here is keep that baby's behind in tact! Now off the research how much epoxy/cloth/etc. I will need for the transom rebuild.

tartuffe · #43 03-26-2012, 09:05 PM

Those jack plates are really nice. If you keep the transom intact, you will need the 10" extension to provide engine clearance when you trim the engine back.

I also have an 81 20' that I just took apart. Pics are under "here she is." I gotta say that while my boat may be the exception rather than the rule, for the amount of wood that did not have glass on it at virtually every cross-member, I would find it hard to believe your stringers do not have some issues.

I hope I am wrong but with that said, if you cut the back end off that cap and then find you need to take the cap off, you now have even more work to do to fix that cut. Also, you are now going to need to do nice looking work with grinding gelcoat back, fairing, in multiple radius. Taking the cap off on these boats is not a complicated process provided you have a means to lift it whether an engine lift or a come along over a branch. It probably weighs 400 lbs and is pretty stiff.

Regarding estimating materials, plan on wetting out 36 SF of 1708 with each gallon of resin. Plan on at least a half gallon for attaching the first layer of ply to the transom skin and then another 1/2 gallon to glue the 2nd layer of ply to the first. I also used 2 $20 bags of cabosil, 1/2 gallon of ground glass fibers from US Composites and around 3 quarts of 1/4" glass fibers. (all of this went into that gallon of PB mix) You will need two sheets of 3/4 ply as well. You can only get 1 layer of ply out of each sheet if you do not plan on cutting it. I found a $3 trowel from lowes with1/4" gap with every other tooth broken out worked good for spreading the PB with the 1/4" chopped glass.

ludacrous999b · #44 03-26-2012, 09:29 PM

Thanks for the info and the encouragement, I was concerned about the weight of the cap, I'm thinking you need to remove the windshield before you pop the cap. My comealong rig will pull 1200lbs and I have a good sturdy tree I parked the boat under. We'll see.

Kracker Jack · #45 03-27-2012, 06:05 AM

As Tartuffe stated about materials I started out with 12 yards of 1708 and 5 gallons of resin,a 3 pound box of cabosil,and I cut and chopped my own glass for chopped glass . Then what i did after that purchase was take it weekend by weekend on material purchases,I simply bought material as I needed it. Just remember a 4 1/2 inch grinder is your friend, if you don't have one then get one.

Destroyer · #46 03-27-2012, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

Just remember a 4 1/2 inch grinder is your friend, if you don't have one then get one.

And get a good one. Cheaper in the long run. It will last longer, vibrate less and run cooler.
And a little tip... take some cheesecloth and tape it across the air intakes of your grinder...it's far easier to replace the cloth when it gets loaded up with glass fibers than it is to take apart and clean the unit.

ludacrous999b · #47 03-28-2012, 10:20 PM

This was my order from Harbor Freight, I'm having it shipped to me because instead of taking the truck 90 miles each way, I paid a quite modest if you ask me.... $21.00 shipping. WOW. 158 pounds for 21 bucks and I get it Friday/Saturday, ordered Tuesday..

AIR HOSE-3/8IN X 50'
17PC ACCY KIT W/ BRASS COUPLER
MULTI-METER DIGITAL 7 FUNCTION
DRILL AIR REVERSIBLE 3/8 IN
AIR ANGLE GRINDER 4IN
ROTARY TOOL SET 80 PCS
AIR SANDER
TOOL BAG-ROLLAWAY 20IN
6AMP RECIP SAW VRS ROTAT HNDL
WINCH ELECTRIC 12V IN/OUT
COMPRESSOR 10GAL 2.5HP OILLUBE
VACUUM/BLOWER WET/DRY 2.2 GAL

Tonight I wandered off to lowes, picked up the lumber for 4 sawhorses, 4 2x4s and 14 2x3s, and....

3/8ths Air Ratchet
Air Tool Oil
Gallon of Acetone
Chain and link for the hoist
2 clip on utility lights
Contractor trash bags
Tyvek Suit with hood and boots,
Nitrile Glloves
Respirator
Safety Goggles
Cheese Cloth
Screws
Shop Towels
and last but not least, Hand broom and deep dustpan.
Looking forward to a great weekend getting the engine out and top off the boat. As usual I always forget something. I need a flexible driver attachment to get those bolts loose from the bell housing.

RidgeRunner · #48 03-29-2012, 07:17 AM

Subscribed. Now there is no turning back. Did a Center console cap removal in 1998. Everything gets exposed. Fuel tank, stringers, plenty of room to work. Only takes a screwdriver hammer winch strong tree and some drivable wedges to help free the cap from the top of the stringers. Keep up the good work. You have your hands full, just keep plugging at it and remember this is fun stuff. I wish I had a project right now.

tartuffe · #49 03-29-2012, 12:55 PM

Sounds like you have more than enough to get started. I wouldn't un pack items until you need them. You may be able to send some of that stuff back not knowing what you already had in your tool kit.

I really like my "mechanix" gloves. The burn isn't as bad when you knick yourself with that grinder. Also, I find that when i really get into a righteous grinding session the one thing that stops me the longest is having to get the dust out of my goggles. I bought a $20 pair that fit tight to my face from grainger. They do 100 times better than the $6 pair I originally started with but I wish they were better.

I wear over the ear hearing protection as well, it helps keep the tyvek close to my head and prevents the late-hour ringing. Being safe and comfortable are the most important things at this stage. Grinding isn't bad so long as you have the right equipment. Its actually kind of soothing.

ludacrous999b · #50 03-29-2012, 03:24 PM

Good thing about working in the Army they give you a certain level of protective equipment already, I distribute fuel so I come pre loaded with over the ear muffs, coveralls and some fuel soaked gloves that have become so old they actually fit.... like... a glove!I plan on layering au natural, coveralls, tyvek, nitrile gloves then the leathers over top of that.

I hear what your saying about the goggles, I'm blind as a bat and have to wear my glasses to see any real detail which could be the difference between grinding the fiberglass or putting a hole in the boat, damned depth perception! The glasses hold the edge of the goggles open just ever so slightly, maybe painters tape over the edge...

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement, keep it coming. My XO invited me golfing Saturday morning, but afternoon is ALL boat. (well getting ready for Sunday boat, wanna rig and test the winch, organize the tools, and set the plan out in my head)

Off to make some sawhorses!