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  #21  
Unread 05-03-2011, 09:19 PM
mauryc mauryc is offline
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Default Arjay rocks gentlemen........

Three plus years (maybe four, I can't remember) and she is still solid. No cracks, no flex, no movement - nada.

Maury
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  #22  
Unread 05-06-2011, 08:08 PM
Richie Rich Richie Rich is offline
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Modern Chemistry.....amazing stuff
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  #23  
Unread 05-07-2011, 02:34 AM
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Genie Aye Genie Aye is offline
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Okay--I am just going to ask---

I am getting the feeling that you dig out the rotten wood--make a backing board inside the hull and then just pour this Arjay product in and that replaces the wood and will not rot.

Looks great by the way!!
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  #24  
Unread 05-09-2011, 08:45 AM
smkinnan smkinnan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genie Aye View Post
Okay--I am just going to ask---

I am getting the feeling that you dig out the rotten wood--make a backing board inside the hull and then just pour this Arjay product in and that replaces the wood and will not rot.

Looks great by the way!!
actually, there is an inner and outer fiberglass "skin" that the old, original wood was sandwiched in between (at least it is that way on my center console). All you have to do is dig out the wood between the two skins, making sure you get as much of the old wood out that you can, cover the holes in the transom really well, and pour in the arjay. It really is that simple. It actually is quite a job but with few steps. Digging out the old wood is the hardest part of the job but the right tools help.
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  #25  
Unread 05-10-2011, 10:11 PM
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Thanks---I looked agian and you are right--there is a inner glass wall as well in the DC. I will have to remember this when my turn comes for this job.
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  #26  
Unread 05-11-2011, 07:47 AM
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reelapeelin reelapeelin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smkinnan View Post
actually, there is an inner and outer fiberglass "skin" that the old, original wood was sandwiched in between (at least it is that way on my center console). All you have to do is dig out the wood between the two skins, making sure you get as much of the old wood out that you can, cover the holes in the transom really well, and pour in the arjay. It really is that simple. It actually is quite a job but with few steps. Digging out the old wood is the hardest part of the job but the right tools help.
If faced w/transom rebuild in the future, it's the route I'll take...l
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  #27  
Unread 07-13-2011, 02:06 PM
thunderbug thunderbug is offline
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Picked up an '88 20'CC with rotten transom; all else is solid. Got most of the wood out and plan on using Nidabond. Before you pour, is anything needed to prevent resin from running out at bottom of transom, if that makes sense. Haven't gotten down that far yet, just planning ahead.
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  #28  
Unread 07-13-2011, 04:25 PM
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When you get the wood out the way, take a rod and bend the end to have about a 2" 90 degree angle in it.
Probing in the bottom and any other places, see if there are voids toward the front or sides. Making the angle slightly longer than the fill area makes it quicker to find holes or gaps.
If you do find voids, you can pack some stuff in that general area to slow the hemorrhage of the fill material.
One thing that worked for me was a scuff material designed for floor sanding (from HomeDepot or Lowes). Looks like woven glass. If I can access the site long enough I'll try to see if there are pictures of the stuff (so far unsuccessful).
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  #29  
Unread 07-13-2011, 04:50 PM
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Go to this link and see post #65.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...?t=2808&page=7
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  #30  
Unread 07-14-2011, 06:42 AM
Shawsee Shawsee is offline
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Looks great! I will be having to do mine soon also. The 76 V is showing all the typical signs of transom rot. I will be using the same stuff because of all the good reviews everyone says about it. Thanks!
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