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  #1  
Unread 04-19-2011, 07:49 PM
joe7670 joe7670 is offline
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Default Cuddy Deck Repair (Finally)

Guys been lost for a while busy with other items. Got the cuddy fixed and the boat is fishing again.

Didn't want to remove the cap so took a different rout and I'm very satisfied with the outcome.

Took the time to refinish the teak and also made new rails for the cuddy slide door as mine were shot.

Painted over with Durabak textured, sanded and followed with Durabak smooth.

Now I don't feel like I'm gonna go through when I walk up there.
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Last edited by joe7670; 04-20-2011 at 08:36 AM.
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  #2  
Unread 04-20-2011, 08:17 AM
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reelapeelin reelapeelin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7670 View Post
Guys been lost for a while busy with other items. Got the cuddy fixed and the boat is fishing again.

Didn't want to remove the cap so took a different rout and I'm very satisfied with the outcome.

Took the time to refinish the teak and also made new rails for the cuddy slide door as mine were shot.

Painted over with the fine version of duraliner.

Now I don't feel like I'm gonna go through when I walk up there.

Wow, Joe...that looks great!!......I don't recall that approach here before to a common problem, but that looks like it turned out really good...what's the material in the pic just before the deck went back on?...what did you use there?...and can you be more specific re the fine version of duraliner...

GOOD job!!...
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  #3  
Unread 04-20-2011, 08:35 AM
joe7670 joe7670 is offline
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Material was 1/2 inch marine grade ply and resin. The wet look is the resin pre putting the cap back on. A little wet to help the cap adhear.
Once the cap went on I put a bunch of sand bags and 5 gallon pails on it to keep it from having bubbles.

Sorry, meant Durabak and my process was. Layed some of the textured durabak that I had left over from the floor. Then sanded it down a little to take the rough peaks out. Finally painted with the smooth version of Durabak.
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Unread 04-20-2011, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7670 View Post
Material was 1/2 inch marine grade ply and resin. The wet look is the resin pre putting the cap back on. A little wet to help the cap adhear.
Once the cap went on I put a bunch of sand bags and 5 gallon pails on it to keep it from having bubbles.

Sorry, meant Durabak and my process was. Layed some of the textured durabak that I had left over from the floor. Then sanded it down a little to take the rough peaks out. Finally painted with the smooth version of Durabak.

Thanks..actually sounds lie you made The whole thing easier (not easy)

Genius move on sanding the Durabak some and repainting...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150
'95 V-21/ BF 150
'84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc
'87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha



http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/MJ-hide/Iphone201205.jpg
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  #5  
Unread 04-21-2011, 04:22 AM
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inaforty inaforty is offline
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Joe,
Thanks for sharing your project. Looks pretty darn good!

How easy did the top skin come off the coring below?

My boat needs to have the coring replaced on the bow also.
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  #6  
Unread 04-21-2011, 09:04 AM
joe7670 joe7670 is offline
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In my case it came off quite easily with a little help from a prybar. Try not to take too much at once to keep it intact.
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Unread 04-21-2011, 09:22 AM
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Great job Joe. Nice to see people using their brains to figure out a better way of doing things.
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Unread 04-21-2011, 06:06 PM
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Joe,
How thick was the coring material?
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1987 V20 (sold) :(
1996 23' Wellcraft
1991 V20 ;)
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  #9  
Unread 04-21-2011, 06:19 PM
joe7670 joe7670 is offline
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1/2" Hence my top cap sticks up a bit. I flared it some at the joint but it's not 100% flush as you can see in the last picture.

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  #10  
Unread 04-21-2011, 06:51 PM
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Thanks Joe!
I would like to make time to do my bow next year.

I just replaced the cockpit hatch coring on the Bertram with Coosa board. Nice stuff but expensive. Might look into what it would cost to do the Wellcraft with Coosa.

Your method seems more logical then removing the whole cap off the hull.
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