v20 top cap removal - Page 3

CharlestonSC · #21 03-07-2011, 09:27 PM

So VE is about $30 cheaper a gal than epoxy from a company in FL called US composites. Is it worth the extra money for epoxy?

Richie Rich · #22 03-07-2011, 10:19 PM

Thats really a personal choice based on what you're more comfortable working with.....some guys like working with resin and accelerator drops and playing with working time/cures etc.....and some guys like working with epoxy which you mix exact ratios the same way every time...you just use different hardener speeds to give you more or less time, ie, slow, medium and fast....I personally like epoxy and don't mind the extra cost as its the strongest and most waterproof resin out there.....but VE is very good as well. There are some caveats with both.....VE has a shelf life...maybe 6 or 9 months once opened.....so if you don't use it, you may lose it...so then what will it cost you? Epoxy on the other hand can last for years...but some cheap epoxies can have an amine blush that migrates to the surface and keeps gelcoat from sticking to it...so most people paint over epoxy...but it can be gelcoated if you get the right kind and know how to apply it....Using a good quality epoxy with slow hardener like MAS, System 3, etc you can gel coat over it.......but for transom rebuilding with wood that's not finished anyway, I'd use epoxy.......for fixing exposed areas on the gunwale or hull sides that require gelcoat matching and bonding, I'd use VE......just my preferences.....many guys use either/or with great success...what are you comfortable with?

Check the prices of epoxy from places like Defender.com in CT or Boat Builder Central in FL...tough to find cheaper prices for name brand products.

RidgeRunner · #23 03-08-2011, 12:50 PM

Man you have come a long way fast.
I used the VE for all my repairs back in 1998. Working in 100 degree heat it is very challenging to get the correct amount of MEKP hardener added to the resin to give yourself the proper working time. I tossed a lot of resin than kicked in the bucket. That ain't cheap. I have tried epoxy since then and liked it. Downside, some of the bi-axial and tri-axial fiberglass fabrics wet out better with VE. Ask the sales rep. they can help there. You can use epoxy over PE or VE but you cannot get the VE or PE to bond properly to epoxy.
Your floor, I would cut out and prep (grind) the area that needs new coring from the bottom side, trial fit a new piece then glue it in place with some slightly thickened epoxy/resin, let it kick, grind anything that looks to be too high or shiny with some 40 grit then put some type of fiberglass over the entire repair with 4" +/- overlap.
The mud they used to bond the liner to the stringers needs to come off. It looks like nearly all the putty stuck to the stringers on yours too. 5200 will not work to bond the two back together IMO. It will have a tendency to sag. Spare gave you a link to the stuff Wellcraft used.
If you are going the T-top route, what will you do with the rodholders built onto the sides of the console? I discovered them to be in the way of mounting the top on mine.

CharlestonSC · #24 03-08-2011, 10:23 PM

I am going with VE as I think this will do a fine job and doing the repairs in this weather should give me a bit more time, I am using US composites
they also sell a epoxy putty that will work to glue the new floor in and stick the liner back to the stringers. Mine has a Ttop the rod holders make me have to use a fork lift to hoist up the top stright up over the console to get it off, the ttop is one of the main reasons I am redoing the floor as it was getting very loose.
One more question in on the floor of my sport 20 is grey if I do some minor crack repair do you think paint is the best way to cover my repairs or try to tint gel coat grey to cover it up?
Thank for the input and I'll post some new picutres soon.

Richie Rich · #25 03-09-2011, 10:04 AM

Well, since you're using VE, gelcoat should bond well....I would try and match the gelcoat first and see how close you can get..and ask USC if they have gelcoat compatible/same brand with the VE you're buying..if the color you mix doesn't match well, you can always still paint over it. In either case, matching gelcoat or paint with an aged surface will take some patience and skill....touch up refinishing without repainting the whole area is one of the hardest things to do...good luck! Post some pics when you're done.