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#21
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Tough break....similar thing happened to a friend of mine....guy had all sorts of JB weld inside the drive to keep it together long enough to get it out the door basically. Live and learn they say...
On another note....when you had the boat in the water was it floating like your bottom paint line shows?.....seems like the back end is sitting WAY low in the back.
__________________
1986 V-20 1986 Yamaha 150 HP 
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#22
03-05-2011, 03:24 PM
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this could be just the beginning of your problems now that you have the lower unit off take the upper off and see what it looks like. oh you can still get a garden hose and connect the hose [to the hose that is]off the inside of the transom inner housing plate. this little tube years ago used to rot out a little [copper] causing trouble but is now made out of plastic type material and no longer a problem. after you turn on the water you start the motor and go from their. anytime you take off a mercruiser outdrive and place it back be sure to have the shifter in forward gear!like said you can get profession advice and info on this site; but you also need some mechanical skills.their are a few cracker jack wrenchs on here. willing to help. good luck and continue on. hope you get to enjoy what you paid for. another bad to the bone V20.
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#23
03-06-2011, 09:33 AM
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I have never had the boat in the water...got it late last summer and just found out it wasn't pumping water last week when I put the muffs on then in a tub of water. I wrapped plastic around the top part of the outdrive and have the lower unit inside the garage. Going to look for a welder tomorrow and see if it can be repaired. I do have another complete used stern drive - worst case - I don't know the condition of that one but it has a few barnacles on it and the housing is in better looking condition that what's on my boat now. Couple of years difference due to apperance, but gimble housing & u-joints are all there. The guy used a sawzall and cut the whole thing from the transome!!!
My current lower unit does have the plastic tube instead of copper, but it's reamed out at top - will need to replace as well. Shame, because the entire boat has been re-wired, new Cobra vhf radio and sound system, all gauges work etc. I'll see what the welder says & go from there,,,guess it's back to the 12' V-hull jon boat...to the pond I go.......
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#24
03-06-2011, 10:02 AM
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keep in mind that replacement outdrive parts are available at much cheaper prices than they were just a few years ago, If you find that teh droive needs extensive work, check with sterndrive enginerring for a price on a replacemnt drive. From what you are descirbing about your boat, I think it would be woryh your while to have a qua;lified mechanic do an evauluation of your boat. have soem one take a look at it and let you know what you're in for, normally it doesn't cost a lot, it would be money well spent.
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#25
03-06-2011, 03:39 PM
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Like Spare and others have said, have it looked at. As far as the antiventelation plate goes, it's not pot metal, it's aluminum, and can easily be welded by any competent welder. But for my money, if you have a whole spare lower unit just sitting there I'd throw that on before I invested a cent in the broken one. Also, I'm a little worried about that water/oil you said came out of the lower unit. Did that come out when you drained the lower unit? If so it probably means you have a bad seal and will need to replace that also. And yes, you can pull the lower unit off with the prop attached or taken off, it doesn't really matter physically, but we're talking about an expensive part (the prop). Merc props are a snap to take off.. just bend the tab, unscrew the nut and slide it off. what could be simpler? It's amazing how much damage an unbalanced prop can do to an engine.... and how much power you can loose with a bent prop, so why take the chance? Always remove the prop when dropping the lower unit.
PS, it''s always better to post your pics here in the thread instead of in your profile... that way ppl can see instantly what you're talking about without the need to refer back and forth. Try and take several different views of what you're problem is.. There's a lot of sharp eyed people on this site and it's unreal how much they can see and correctly deduce from what looks like a normal picture. Makes life a lot simpler. 
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#26
03-07-2011, 11:56 AM
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RWilson...yes the water line is way below where the guy painted the hull and put the stripe on......must have lost his glasses that day...... going to shoot it white when I get my engine stern problems fixed.....good eye, tho
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#27
03-07-2011, 12:11 PM
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Thanks Destroyer.....I actually found a piece of thin rope between the lower & upper halves at the trim tab crack area, which tells me the epoxy was failing over the entire crack allowing water to enter the lower unit at the trim tab crack. Looking at the other lower unit, there are some differences. The trim arms are much shorter than what I have on the boat now and a few other small differences. I'll try and make room and back it into my shop where I can work on it and see what I'm dealing with. We've had high winds for a week now and cold temps - I work out in the cold every day - would be nice to get it in the shop and work on it.
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