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#1
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And sometimes it ain't that you run it at 50-60 mph...it's that you CAN when you want to ![]() Can't figure out your reference "BM"...?...Bad Mammerjammer?...LOL!!...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#2
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Black max...thought it was you that had one for sale some time back...I remember it was a 150,,,?
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#3
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A 150 can be either a 2.0L, 2.4L, or 2.5L. The 2.0L 135/150's are the ones that sound like a pissed off dragster when they idle. The 2.5L is a solid performer, but from my experience is a THIRSTY pig of an engine. I had one of the 2.5L MERCURY 150 XRI's(same engine as a 175 carbed engine but was a fuel injected performance model) on my flats boat a few years back, and it would flat out haul A$$ when you got on it. I hit 60 a few times with it on there. The downside was it burned about 17GPH at WOT, BUT burned 12 GPH at 3800-4000 cruising. I've got an old 81 150 2.0L on an old bass boat and that thing sounds WICKED, but only burns 4GPH at a 3800 RPM cruise. If you could find an old 2.4L 175 though, that would be teh ticket. It will most likely be a chrome bore engine, but you can have them slleeved with steel sleeves if needs be. Check screamandfly as they LIKE there MERCS over there. And I believe your controls will work, but you'll probably have to change your tach out as MERCS are 12 poles and most FORCE engines are 20 pole.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#4
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be hard to beat a 2L merc for what your doing
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#5
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Quote:
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#6
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stink, the biggest problem i've had in working on outboards is corrosion. the mechanics are pretty straight forward(on carbed ones). timing issues can be hard to get straight, but the innards aren't bad. the ones that are ran in salt are a collection of bolts waiting to be broke off. mercs do seen to be easier. also big shrimpin is an excellent parts source.
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#7
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Ferm, your right the 150 is made in different liter configurations. I like the 150 2.0L and all the 2.4L because they are light. Ditch the oil infection as mentioned, then you won't be looking for a place to install the remote oil tank. The electronics and link and sink seem like smoke and mirror stuff initially, buy a manual and you realize it is not that bad. On a carbed motor the only part that cannot be thouroughly tested with a volt/ohm meter is the switch boxes. Aside from that the Stator, Trigger, Coils, Rectifier/Regulator, Spark plugs, maybe an idle stabilizer box (which I would discard) are easily tested and that is the entire ignition/charging system on a carbed Merc V-6. When you remove the cowl it may look like speghetti but all the wires are color coded, it is real easy.
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#8
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I had the 175 2.4 black max and it was all i needed for my 23 footer, pushed it to low 30's and would curz all day at 27mph and real easy on the gas!
BS has in now and is going to put it on his 23 seacraft when he gets the transom done. I know he also has another 175 2.4 block that runs? but just the block that I know of, if you want me to ask him about it?
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#9
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Thanks MJ but Im not ready at all right now...just considering and reading up. The Mrs. is nursing but we still playing catch up.
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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