new to forum - my V-20 project

nepatsfanatic · #1 07-26-2010, 09:01 PM

Hi Guys, just joined the forum after spending much time as a guest. I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge here. I just picked up a V-20 project boat with no motor. I also picked up an 01 Evinrude ficht 225, its powerhead was completely replaced in 03. Its in beautiful shape and I hope to stand run it this weekend. From what I've read it should really be a blast. I think the hull is a 77', ID is WEL00772M77B-V20. The boat is in decent shape overall, needs TLC and paint, floor is solid, stringers solid where I can reach. Transom is another question, I've done the mallet test and have a couple of small areas that sound questionable (few inches only). Where it meets the stringers is rock solid, no cracks anywhere, engine mount area is good, above both stringers and further to the gunwales sounds maybe delaminated a little on both sides (exterior only). I am wondering the best way to test whats in there?. The motor is a 25" and I'm planning to fill in the notch, its a 20" set up now. I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet and just redo the transom completely, the motor is 500+ pounds and the HP will be tough on it. I looked into Seacast and wondered about the weight versus marine ply?, or maybe cpes epoxy injection?. The boat has twin gas tanks, one each side at rear, I'm guessing 20-25 gals each which is considerable weight too. I'd be grateful for your thoughts and ideas, this is my first Wellcraft and Evinrude, had Johnson's and Merc's previously on various rigs. My boating time is 99% in the ocean and that's where me and this beauty are headed someday.

Glad to be here!
Steve

chumbucket · #2 07-27-2010, 06:24 AM

Welcome to the site Steve. Nice to see a fellow Pats fan.

I have zero experience with the Seacast product. I have worked on a previous boat by cutting the outer skin off the transom and re-doing it with epoxy laminated plywood. It really wasn't too bad of a project.
I'm sure you've already searched the site for others that have done this project. You should also check out www.classicseacraft.com , www.classicmako.com , and www.classicaquasport.com
You'l find a lot more info on those sites as well. Take some pics and show us whatcha got.

BRIELLY · #3 07-27-2010, 09:10 AM

I wouldn't try the cpes method. It looks like it "may" work on a small boat but I would't want to risk it on a v. You can either remove the entire cap where you will have access to the transom and stringers, cut the rear portion of the cap to get new wood into the transom, or try seacast or arjay. I have no experience with seacast but I did the arjay pourable transom this spring and its holding up very well.

charlie_the_tuna · #4 07-27-2010, 08:32 PM

and please let me appologize in advance because my jets will be taking the division this season. repeat after me; AFC EAST CHAMPIONS, NEW YORK JETS!

macojoe · #5 07-27-2010, 08:54 PM

Welcome to the site.

You can drill a few small (1/4) holes on the inside of transom and see what comes out? Clean wood you are great, dirt you rotted.
You can also just put the motor on there and when tilted up, grab the tail of the motor and lift up, cracking or movement you need transom, n cracking sound or movement you good to go.

Can also get a Jack Plate to lift motor up the 5" so you are able to run the 25" shaft with out filling the transom. If the transom is in good shape.

Gas tanks are 20 gal each.

nepatsfanatic · #6 07-27-2010, 08:55 PM

Thanks for the warm welcome guys. GO PATS Chumbucket!, camp starts soon. I've added a pic of the old girl (hopefully!) and highlighted where transom sounds iffy, only on outer skin which is odd. I reefed on it a little this evening and there is more movement than I will ever be happy with so I think I'm gonna go hog wild and do the whole thing with new ply and resin. I am determined to make this boat awesome again. Do you guys have recommendations for a glass and resin supplier?, if so please advise. Brielly the arjay is new to me so I'll check that out too, sounds like a good repair method. Did you do all the work from the cap access? I've seen a few different ways done nice, and successfully, I think I'll be okay doing the work from outside by removing the outer skin if I need too. I would be grateful for any pointers as to where to cut, more importantly where not to cut!, wish me luck! Steve.

nepatsfanatic · #7 07-27-2010, 09:23 PM

Hi macojoe, thanks for your reply and welcoming me aboard. I did a little wrestling on the transom and it definitely has movement, my motor stand is two sheets of 3/4 ply with a few screws and there is no comparison, night and day. I want to make a real nice job of this boat and do it right, gotta have solid transom. Is there an advantage to the jack plate system or is it just to save the notch work? Thanks for the tank info, are they standard on that model? I'm wondering what the range will be with the 225. I see you run a four stroke 225, economy must be better, how do you like it?

nepatsfanatic · #8 07-27-2010, 09:30 PM

we can all dream charlie the tuna....apparently you more than most!

Destroyer · #9 07-27-2010, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nepatsfanatic

we can all dream charlie the tuna....apparently you more than most!

LOL .... SCORE!!!!!!!

PS....Aren't those the NJ Jets? Seems to me I recall them playing in NJ Giants Stadium in East Rutherford, New Jersey ....

BRIELLY · #10 07-28-2010, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nepatsfanatic

Did you do all the work from the cap access? I've seen a few different ways done nice, and successfully, I think I'll be okay doing the work from outside by removing the outer skin if I need too. I would be grateful for any pointers as to where to cut, more importantly where not to cut!, wish me luck! Steve.

I rented the longest chainsaw I could get, pulled off the aluminum cap and and started cutting. About 8 hours later it was ready to be filled. If you do the other method avoid cutting the outside skin. Professionals cut the rear section of the cap off and replace the wood and skin from the inside.