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  #11  
Unread 05-07-2010, 08:33 PM
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The only problem you may have is if the ducer scatches the 5200 then the oil can get in the 5200 and break it down chemically. I have seen 2 ducers where the mineral oil was leaking out from the seal area and when the owners took them off the 5200 was deteriorating.

But I know of 5 others with the same set up and they have not had a problem.
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  #12  
Unread 05-08-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garagenc View Post
The only problem you may have is if the ducer scatches the 5200 then the oil can get in the 5200 and break it down chemically. I have seen 2 ducers where the mineral oil was leaking out from the seal area and when the owners took them off the 5200 was deteriorating.

But I know of 5 others with the same set up and they have not had a problem.

I'm gonna coat the inside of the well including the 5200 bead around the bottom w/a DAPCO latex sealer...should isolate oil from 5200

Capt Pete...I think they don't want you to set the ducer in 5200 which isn't what I'm doin here...it'll be suspended in the oil...the 5200 is adhesive/sealer for the pipe/well only, so I think it'll be OK...

And the ethyl glycol anti-freeze concerns me more than the mineral oil in terms of breaking down the 5200 over time...thanks for the suggestion and I'll use as plan B, but will forge ahead w/ min. oil til it poofs in my face...LOL!!...
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  #13  
Unread 05-08-2010, 07:37 AM
randlemanboater randlemanboater is offline
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Hey REEL, just brain storming here....what about mixing up a little resin to attach the pipe instead of 5200....no worries then.
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  #14  
Unread 05-08-2010, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randlemanboater View Post
Hey REEL, just brain storming here....what about mixing up a little resin to attach the pipe instead of 5200....no worries then.
Actually I was thinking along similar lines. Why not just epoxy the pipe in place? After all, it's the 'ducer (and the cost of it) that you're worried about being in the wrong place. Granted, the pipe will not be as easy to remove with epoxy as with 5200, but a hammer and a mini-grinder will make short work of it if it does need to be moved. And the epoxy is completely impervious to mineral oil after it's cured. As a safety net you could always run a bead of rtv around the outside bottom of the pipe where it meets the hull once the epoxy is set up.
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  #15  
Unread 05-08-2010, 11:19 AM
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Randleman & Destroyer...Pobabaly should have done that, but she's been set in 5200 for several days now...I'll coat w/some sealer I just picked up and try 'er that way...if this DOESN'T work, I'll cut it out and epoxy it back in...
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  #16  
Unread 05-28-2013, 10:37 PM
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Default No leaks,mineral oil is still there

Did a search to see if I could find info on your transducer install. HDS5 is not reading depth :( Reel, your install does not seem to be the problem. I loosened the clamp on the lid and looked inside, the mineral oil is all present and accounted for. Ant thoughts on why I would get three dashes instead of a depth reading?
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  #17  
Unread 05-29-2013, 06:27 AM
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three dashes indicate no signal to the head unit, either a bad transducer, a bad connection or a break in the transducer cable
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  #18  
Unread 05-30-2013, 10:42 AM
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Appreciate the diagnosis. Kinda what I was figuring. I tried a soft reset of the unit and that did not help. I would have thought that if the mineral oil was gone I would have gotten errattic and inaccurate readings instead of no reading at all. Oh well, one more thing one the to do list.
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Last edited by rb437; 05-30-2013 at 10:48 AM.
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  #19  
Unread 12-03-2013, 08:04 PM
franko franko is offline
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5200 is nearly bullet proof once cured
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