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#1
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When you get to the fairing stage of this project. Systems 3 makes a nice product called Quickfair . . . it's an epoxy fairing compound. It goes on like butter and sands nicely.
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#2
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No I didn't add any thickeners, this is just the first coat, I still need to recoat a few times to fill in the cloth. The bond is good all around, really happy with how solid the back came out, not sure why the color is like that. More pics
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/IMG_0042.jpg http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/IMG_0044.jpg |
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#3
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Epoxy resin along with roven during the same process should have been solid enough to do your job. Cloth/resin(as a builder) would have been an in-between before the next stage of resin and roven and so on. Not much ya can do now except use a grinder to grind off the bubbles and repair that area. Gelcoat does wonders to repair a mistake,just gotta make sure the repair behind it will last and not come back to haunt ya. Just sayin.
__________________
Elbow Room '85 V-20 Step-Lift Express "Take A Fish Boating" |
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#4
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My opinion, it looks like you should have used a little more resin. From the pictures of the outside of the transom you look to have some dry edges and once you wet it out it should have had a clear appearance unless I am missing something.
The wood replacement looks tight. You should definitely glass over the top of the transom as resin alone will crack and allow moisture to get to the core. What year is your 20? and how did you remedy the stringer rot? |
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#5
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1975 V20, planning on sistering new resined marine ply thu bolted, then glass over both and also glass to transom. In that pic of the outside I hadn't put any resin on yet except enought to wet it out, needs more coats then fairing. Planning on glassing the top also. Thanks for all your comments, it all helps.
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#6
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the 2 inch transom is scary most boats with a rating of 200 hp or more has a min of 2 1/2 transom.
__________________
1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#7
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My 20 was rated for 200 or more and it had 1 1/2" core from the factory. It did have an east 1/4" worth of glass on the outside and a courtesy layer on the inside maybe 1/8".
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#8
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Quote:
Grinnd out the bubbles feather the edges with thickened epoxy. Let dry, sand whipe with acetone. Remember, with West System, once you miss the recoat window you will have to lighlty abrade and whipe with warm water or acetone before you apply any subsequent layers of glass/resin. West System has a rather high amount of Amines in it which come to the surface once fully cured. Without removing any amines you will not get the good bond between layers/coats. With all that said, it shouldnt be that bad. 36 grit sand wheel on a buffer you should be able to knock that out in no time... What temps are you working in? you using the fast catalyst or slow? That will have a lot to do with fluid penetration. Are you using a resin roller? Squeege? Just some things to digest...
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#9
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When I did that layer it was around 70, I applied resin with a plastic spreader, then rolled it out with a resin roller ( hard plastic type ), yes I do sand between coats and also wipe with acetone. I am using 17 oz. Bidirectional cloth backed with 3/4 oz. mat, I guess I just didn't use enough resin and didn't work it in enough in those areas. I just can't stand doing something over again because of my mistake.
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