Jackplate thoughts - Page 2

Chomper · #11 02-19-2009, 07:53 PM

Well I have a big splashwell and all of my boating is done in the Chesapeake close to shore so I feel safe, but I will take everyone's advice and bring it up to a 25.

Kamikaze, I might hit you up for that later but I want to try the (I need to repower story) a shot first with my wife. I like my motor and it runs well it is just to much for what I do.

Splashwell pic

reelapeelin · #12 02-20-2009, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skools Out

yeah you really should go to a 25" keeps water out of the transom. we have several members that have sunk due to low transom in rough water.

If he has to go w/his current 20" motor, will the setback of a jackplate allow suffiecient tilt w/a 25" tranny?...I would think so, particularly w/a 10" setback...it may not tilt ALL THE WAY UP but well enough to clear for trailering, shallow water, etc...

kamikaze · #13 02-21-2009, 08:45 AM

Reel:

I don't think the shaft length has anything to with the motors clearance to the splashwell, With or without any setback being added. Or did I miss understand?

Chomper:

You may only be running the in bay, but your first post says you want to add a platform / seat in that area after a mod - sounds to me like your might be planning on adding a lot more weight back there when not running? Do yourself a favor and raise the transom 5" now while your doing the job. Speaking from personnel experience. Adding a bracket with any kind of setback brings more problems than most people first think in a boat of this size.

Kamikaze

Skools Out · #14 02-21-2009, 10:01 AM

raise the transom and then get the 5" ext kit for your motor.

Chomper · #15 02-21-2009, 03:53 PM

Skools, that is the conclusion I came to as well run the old engine till it blows then replace. However the only thing that is holding me back is I am not sure how to fill the notch in. Do I just build a mold to hold the arjay and then glass over? I want to make sure it is strong enough because I still want to put the jackplate on it.

Skools Out · #16 02-22-2009, 10:25 AM

yeah you build up a glass mold on each side then pour in and then glass over completely when finished.
here's a picture of mine built up but not yet finished

Chomper · #17 02-22-2009, 03:01 PM

Looks good, did you use roving or mat to make your mold? I am not sure what strength I need.

Skools Out · #18 02-22-2009, 07:15 PM

both mine isn't poured it is replaced wood then glassed in.

RidgeRunner · #19 03-03-2010, 09:19 AM

Pancake,
Is the motor a 20" shaft or a 25"? If you want to get the motor out of the drink and give yourself a little more freeboard aft, you add in the 5" piece to the transom to fill in the notch and go with a 25" shaft motor. If you already have a 25" motor it is buried deep on the 20" transom, not good. It ain't easy to fill in the notch, a jackplate will get you 5" higher using the 20" motor bolt holes already drilled and using the highest setting on the jackplate but you may need to reconfigure steering as mentioned.
Chomper,
My 20' CC is not a self bailer and I have caught a lot of crap about it but I have a full transom. Your transom looks spooky low at 20" with the huge access hatch. That hatch needs the captains extra special attention every time out IMO. Also, Is the blue paint at the water line because it does not look as if the blue paint even extends up to cover all of the hull bottom. It looks like the factory made the scuppers for the 20" splashwell real low. I only mention it as you may need to reconfigure the splashwell too if you go up to the 25" transom height. I would do it. The result will be worth the effort.

RidgeRunner · #20 03-03-2010, 09:21 AM

Pancake? Somebody is messing with the posts.