Ok Merc issues - Page 4

chumbucket · #31 11-09-2008, 11:19 PM

You want I should bring a gun?

macojoe · #32 11-09-2008, 11:30 PM

if you want, but i rather you bring your hands to help with a few things! How about Tuesday??

macojoe · #33 11-10-2008, 12:46 AM

Ok I looked up the SS# and it seems that my motor is a 1985, not 1987 like I thought it was, just incase this makes a difference.

chumbucket · #34 11-10-2008, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macojoe

if you want, but i rather you bring your hands to help with a few things! How about Tuesday??

I'd rather bring the gun.

spareparts · #35 11-10-2008, 08:00 AM

find the alarm under the dash, it should have a purple wire(key on power) hooked to one side, make sure it has 12 v when you turn the key on, then it should have a tan/blue wire hooked to the other lead, when grounded out, this wire comepletes the circut, sounding the alarm. You can make one using any kind of 12 volt, l,ow amperage, horn or buzzer, seen people use seat belt buzzers before, just make sure its loud enough for you to hear it while underway, and always check the circut by grounding out the wire back at the sensor, with the key on, to check the alarm. If you feel real adventurious, you can hook a red light to the alarm as well and mount it in the dash to give you a visual warning as well, just wire it in parallel with the alarm

chumbucket · #36 11-10-2008, 10:27 AM

Like I told you over the phone. Stop fixating on the temp problem! Worry about that later. The sputtering of the motor is not related to the motor running hot at low RPMs. The sputtering, bogging, cutting out (whatever you want to call it) only happened at higher RPMs when the motor is running at it's coolest. The problem never materialized at trolling speeds. You either have a fuel problem with the pump or something in the the carbs like a blocked jet. If not, then it's electrical.
For all your worrying about the higher temps at trolling speed, that motor ran at trolling speed for close to five hours and never once missed a beat. Worry about the other problem first. One thing at a time.

THEFERMANATOR · #37 11-10-2008, 01:16 PM

Trying to get a few more details here MJ.

When the problem occurs it is at high RPM's correct?
What happens if you come off plane and run it for a few minutes and then get back on plane?
Does the problem immediately return or does it take a few minutes again? What happens if you go WOT?
How many RPM's is it actually dropping when this happens?

The more I think about your problem, the more it sounds like a restriction going into the float bowl in front of the needle and seat. This would cause it to run good for a minute or 2 until the fuel level in that bowl drops below a certain level. Then it would go to missing. If when you come off plane for a few minutes it comes up and run's normal again I would check for a blockage in one of the carb inlets, or possibly a blockage in front of one of the main jets. To check for a blockage going into the carbs. Drain the bowls out and leave the drain plugs out. Get somebody to pump the primer bulb and look for fuel to come out. You want to look for the drain that doesn't have much fuel coming out of it. If they all drain out the same amount then it could still be a blockage in front of the main jet.

I've seen this happen before on a few occasions where you have a fairly large piece of debris floating around in the carb bowl. It takes sometimes 30 seconds, sometimes 5 minutes for the debris to cover the main jet over. A blockage in the needle and seat entrance will normally take the same amount of time every time for the problem to occur.

macojoe · #38 11-10-2008, 02:26 PM

CB

Ok BS came by today and just left. We found that one ck vale in the fuel pump was sticking so we changed it out, seems fine now.
There was no metal shavings of any kind on the pump screen so i guess they never got by the Racor.

We had a hose getting kinked some when the linkage was at wot and we fixed that also. We drained the bowls but did not do the test you said as I did not read this before hand.

Plugs are pretty dirty and replaced. The motor starts like a dream and idles fine!! BS felt the water and said I am good to go! I still hate how hot it is but everyone says its good then it must be!

When we had the carbs off before we cleaned the crap out of them and set the floats, and reinstalled, and since tere was nothing on the pump screen I am sure they are still that way, At least I hope so??

We really don't think its a fuel issue at this point?? But I have not put the boat in the water yet to see if anything we did today helps??
I will try to get out tomorrow to test it and see, I will also try your test to see if it is something there. When I came down to plane before it would clear up and when I gave it gas it would started immediately again.
But waited to start for a mile or so when it would first show up.

I am hoping it was something we fixed today?

macojoe · #39 11-10-2008, 02:42 PM

O yea only happens at high rpms, 4000 and above. when it happens I lose 1 to 500 rpms, mostly it starts losing 100 and goes to 500 as you go. I just give more gas to get them back up but still sputtering.

see what happens tomorrow? Thank

THEFERMANATOR · #40 11-10-2008, 03:13 PM

Does it eventually smooth out and sound like it has lost a cylinder? This sounds an awful lot like a fuel issue where your losing one cylinder. Although it could easily be a switchbox or stator issue. When it does it next time shut it down while it's doing it and go back and pull all of the plugs out. Look for the one that looks like it's not firing or out of the ordinary. If they all look uniform, but the problem is still there I would suspect the stator's high speed side. If one of your plugs looks really light in color then you know which carb to check. If one plug looks wet or fouled then check the ignion for that circuit. You need to isolate the problem so you know which are to address.