NEW V20 owner - Page 2

tsubaki · #11 08-01-2008, 07:36 PM

GREAT!!
Also consider while you're spending money weather to go bracket, jackplate, etc.
You can sink a pile into it and/or spend a little along.
As I was greeted a little over a year and a half ago by Pipe Dream,
Welcome to the madness!!

shaneburris74 · #12 08-02-2008, 09:36 PM

I've seen some of your pics where you have put in a drain plug sleeve. On the drain sleeves , the ones that are not for the plug:
Do I put those in prior to pouring or do you drill and put them in later?
And when they are in how do I mushroom over the other end to make em stay?

Thanks

nymack66 · #13 08-02-2008, 10:03 PM

Congratulations and welcome to the site, if it wasn’t for the knowledge and wisdom of the pros on this site I would I given up on my V’s a long time ago.
I have also learned pictures are definitely worth a thousand words; after all I spent a thousand dollars trying to fix an engine with the wrong lower unit, I post a couple of pictures and bam the boys nailed it! See my post under repairs for details.
I am currently working on a project hull see my tread it looks like yours!
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ead.php?t=9457

tsubaki · #14 08-02-2008, 11:15 PM

It's probably best to put them in when your done pouring.
Rolling the sleeve can be easy and hard, depending on the methods used.
Cut the sleeve off with a sharp pipe cutter or if you're real good a hacksaw, about 1/8" -3/16" longer than the edge of the transom. File and deburr the cut end. Coat the sleeve and hole with silicone or 5200, install the sleeve from the inside, wedge it in place, use a small ball pein hammer to roll the outer edge, lightly tapping at the transom edge. This will seem to take forever.
You may also do it with a medium ball pein by holding the round end against the sleeve and tapping it moderately hard with another hammer, circling and rounding as you go.
In either instance be careful not to kink the sleeve from hitting too hard or split the edge you are working with.
Easiest way, is with a tool made just for the job.
Hammer had one and said they were readily available. I'll see if I can locate the thread and/or a supplier.
If you haven't rolled a sleeve before, I strongly suggest buying the tool!

tsubaki · #15 08-02-2008, 11:43 PM

Well, found the thread but pictures ain't there!
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ighlight=drain
And I've never seen one till hammer had that one!
]

http://www.marinepowerservice.com/bo...roductID=11405

shaneburris74 · #16 08-03-2008, 11:53 AM

Thanks tsubaki. I'm gonna look around at Lowes. I followed that link and for $40 I think I may just bang on it with my ball peen hammer...lol.
NY Mack- I've been checking out your posts already...been following them for a while. Thats V's gonna be pretty when you finish it. I'm worried about running into good wood in my transom too, like you have. I personally have decided to go with Nida core for mine. Mostly due to price and the guys gonna be in my area so I can pick it up from him. They have also been the most helpful. I didn't even call Seacast, not with their prices.

shaneburris74 · #17 08-04-2008, 12:10 PM

On the subject of the jackplate. I found one a while back here in town that was used and was a manual crank. They wanted $200 for it. I would like to set it up with a jack plate if I can find one for a price like that when I'm ready for it. The steering cable has to be bent in order to work with the set back right? Can you bend 'em yourself or do you have to buy them like that?
I think when I switch my motor over from my bowrider I may have to buy a new steering cable anyway. I think it may be two short for the V20.

tsubaki · #18 08-04-2008, 01:24 PM

As far as I know there is no appreciable difference toward the steering cable when useing a jack plate. No bending, different or anything. As a matter a fact, the motor will be up a couple inches higher due to the setback and be easier for the steering cable to operate.
The only issue "may" be the length depending on the amount of setback on the perticular model you get.
The models that have 5 1/2" setbacks will not require a different cable than the one you already have unless it is already really tight.
My cable is 18', a 17' would have been perfect.

shaneburris74 · #19 08-06-2008, 08:18 AM

I was out taking a look at my transom and realized there is still a steering cable in the boat. It was last rigged with a Yamaha and I have a Merc. I think those cables are universal arent they? Thats good news if so, I won't have to buy another cable.

mauryc · #20 08-06-2008, 10:29 AM

I went with the Arjay product (exactly the same as Nidacore). If you take your time you'll be very happy with the results. I've got a solid transom and my boat still looks factory with no cuts or patches in the glass. I can offer you feedback on what I did to get all the old wood out.

Maury