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#1
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I thought I had solved my problems but after a long trip and breaking down I guess not. So far Ive rebuilt the carbs, fuel pump and installed a new rectifier and checked all fuel lines, filters and tank. Ive squeezed the bulb while its almost dying but that doesn't seem to do anything. The problem only arises after running for at least a 1/2. It will run flawlessly at 30 mph but when I back off the throttle it sputters at slower speeds. After shutting down it will barely idle and just dies if I try to give it gas. I'm assuming this is some type of iginition problem since I imagine if it was fuel the problem would be more consistent??? Unfortunately it looks like I will have to break down again to duplicate and check the problem. I'm planning to bring my spark tester and an extra coil hoping that its just a bad coil. Is there anything else i should check while this is happening? I'm also wondering if the oiling system could cause this problem after running for a while. Ive noticed some oil lying in the bottom of the cowl and it is a bit smokey at startup but not too bad once running. I guess I'll pull the plugs and see if they are fouled. If anyone can give me any suggestions on what to test or look for when this happens i'd appreciate it.
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#2
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find out if you are dropping a cylider and which one. Buy a set of ignition pliers, they have rubber coated handles and they are made for grabbing spark plug wires so you can pull one wire off at a time to see which cylinder is dead( it wont make any difference when its pulled off). Take a sugestion, hook a string to those pliers, you will eventually get hit by the ignition, it only hurts for a short while, but you tend to throw the pliers in the water when you get zapped
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#3
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And don't worry, you won't pee on yourself.
THE SHOCK LOCKS UP EVERYTHING!!
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#4
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If you do get shocked, that cyl is firing,
proceed to the next one............. |
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#5
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Wouldn't the spark checker do the same thing minus the shock?
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#6
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Quote:
Yea but not as fun!! Have you ck the stator??
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#7
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I will try to test the stator tomorrow although I will probably have to do it while the problem is occuring. BTW how do you check the stator. Ive read the seloc manual but its a bit confusing.
Last edited by BRIELLY; 08-05-2008 at 10:24 PM. |
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#8
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Ohm meter for resistance checks, and then a PRV for total output. MERC's are known for stator problems as they use a split stator system. One side handles the 3000 RPM's- and the other side handles 3000 RPM's+. The high RPM side normally causes the most grief from what I have heard, but a low side can definately cause trouble.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#9
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when you find a dead cylinder by pulling the spark plug wire, you can determine if its dead from lack of fire, or some other issue. If you find you have two cylinders that have no fire, you look at the trigger, three on one side, look at the switch box. If you have two side by side that have fire but are dead, you may have a flooding carb( or no fule to the carb). You can fine tune your diagnosis by using a spray bottle with soem gas in it. Once you find the offending cylinders, spray a little gas down the carb throat, if the cylinder picks up, you know its not getting fuel. You get the idea?
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#10
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Sounds like some good advice. Now all I have to do is go break down.
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