Can't go over 2500 rpm's?

[tsubaki]

I don't understand how this problem presented itself without some prompting.
Did any wires somehow get arced, grounded or shorted? Normally that would damage a powerpack.
If it was the magnets shifting in the flywheel it wouldn't run or at best run like crap.
Whatever it is, at least it happened in the yard and not offshore.
Look at it that way.

[macojoe]

BS and I were fixing the shifter and had the cowling off and hanging, that might have broke a wire waiting to happen?? There seems to be a few like that, that the old owner just taped up.

[nymack66]

Disconnect both tan wires and ground one at a time to the lock with the key switch on, your buzzer should sound. If no buzzer then its possible the tan wire is currently shorted out shorted (no buzzer working) and is holding the motor within the "low load range of 2500 rpm”?
Also can you turn the prop freely in Natural? Maybe the lower unit is broken and is locking? Reason why I mentioned the lower unit is because of the shifting issue.

[macojoe]

The lower unit is fine right now.

No buzzer so that test isn't going to work, but the book says to disconnect the tan wires from the censors and try it, I did today and still the same.

Thanks!!

[nymack66]

The TAN wire is spliced in the harness you just can’t see it, it connected back to the power packs to limit spark in the event there is a short (over heat, low oil etc) to protect the engine. If this wire is disconnected but still creating a ground it will continue to act like it should in this case limiting you to a low RPM, the other is the buzzer since you don't have a buzzer maybe just maybe this part of its function is working! My thoughts are to unplug the round connector and tone the tan wire out, single pin from the connector back to both ends of the TAN wires make sure it has no connection or fault to ground hope this makes some sense. Also it will not hurt to lubricate the round red plug connector when you unplug it. I really don't think it is your Stator period.

[macojoe]

Thanks again!!

There is a wire in the red plug that rotted out, BS found it and it does go to the tan wires!! So you might be right on the money!!

BS is coming Friday with a new wire harness for the motor, I am going to replace the boat side wire harness tomorrow cause I have one here.

Hopefully this will take care of the problem?? It has to be something simple like a wire cause everything was perfect till the sifter broke. and we disturbed wires.

[tsubaki]

Just remembered.
Usually you can crank an engine without the harness to the shifter connected and run but not be able to shut it off.
This may help localise the problem.
Start the engine, then unplug the harness under the cowling and see if the problem still exists. In order to shut it off, you must plug it back up in order to use the key switch as the kill or off position.
Unless the wire you are describing is in that harness connection.

[macojoe]

Are you saying the Red Plug?? That won't kill the motor after you unplug and should run fine??

[tsubaki]

Yes the red round one inside the cowl that goes to the control box and to the engine harness, about 1 1/2" round.
We have checked motors prior to purchase if controls were not available, say on the back of the boat or in a drum without the control box attached by jumping the starter solonoid and manually choking the engine. Only problem, there is no way to kill the engine except to choke it down or unplug the gas and let it run out.
Anyway...
This might let you localize it to the control box wires or the engine harness wires or not without replacing them.
I can't imagine it being either based on the way the VRO was wired but I have no experience on this.
Won't cost nothing but a trip to the ramp, at least you can experience how easy it is to steal a boat without a key.

[tsubaki]

You no be tried any ob dat today?