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  #1  
Unread 07-08-2008, 08:30 PM
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BuilderFL BuilderFL is offline
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Default Calling All Mercury Techs...Again?

Well my 1980 Merc 200 is shot and I will be breaking it down to sell parts on Ebay, so if any of you guys need any parts, let me know and will work something out.

Now, I'm looking to buy a 1998 Mercury 200hp for $2,850 and need your help once again.

Most important is what's your opinion about this motor?
Is this a fair price or what should I offer?
Is there way to tell the hours on this motor?
Anything in particular I should be looking for?
Is the oil injection a good or a bad thing on these motors?
What's an acceptable compression?
Best way to check for sparks?

Thanks again guys.
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  #2  
Unread 07-08-2008, 09:07 PM
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THEFERMANATOR THEFERMANATOR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuilderFL View Post
Well my 1980 Merc 200 is shot and I will be breaking it down to sell parts on Ebay, so if any of you guys need any parts, let me know and will work something out.

Now, I'm looking to buy a 1998 Mercury 200hp for $2,850 and need your help once again.

Most important is what's your opinion about this motor?
Is this a fair price or what should I offer?
Is there way to tell the hours on this motor?
Anything in particular I should be looking for?
Is the oil injection a good or a bad thing on these motors?
What's an acceptable compression?
Best way to check for sparks?

Thanks again guys.
I'm going to assume it's a 2.5L since in 98 was when the 2.5L 200 OFFSHORE was introduced.

Good engine, but thirsty.
Sounds like a fair price if it's in good condition.
No.
Rust on the steering arm, signs of recent engine work, look for any major salt build-up on it, look to see if the paint marks are still on the linkage as many will try and turn these engines up for more power.
The oil injection on them is not all that reliable, the plastic(yes I said plastic) 2 piece crankshaft driving gear is prone to failure without notice. It is also known to slip and reduce oil output while not setting the alrarm off.
125-130 is normal for a 2.5L.
A simple spark tester available at most any parts store works great for checking spark.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
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  #3  
Unread 07-08-2008, 09:29 PM
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THEFERM...you're the man!
With a budget of about $3,000 - $3,500 do you recommend any particular motor and/or year?
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  #4  
Unread 07-08-2008, 10:56 PM
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Obviously a MERC would be your cheapest as you already have MERC rigging. Look around for another 2.4L powerhead, I seen one the other day on CRAIGSLIST for $750. 2.5L's are nice and powerful, but the thirst in a bit much IMHO. YAMAHA's are also nice for the size and weight.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #5  
Unread 07-09-2008, 07:08 PM
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i think Ferm just about covered it pretty well. Fuel consuption on the 2.5s isn't that much different on the bigger boats, you will get better with a 2.4 on a lighter boat. On the heavy ones, I haven't seen much difference. i personally like merc V6's over the competitiors, That doesn't mean they are better( its hard core Yamaha country around here), they just seem to be a good comprimise between initial price, service parts priceing and availability, light weight and performance. the good thing about 2.5's over 2.4s is they have steel sleeves, if you kill more than one hole on a 2.4, its generally not worth rebuilding due to the pricing of sleeving( you can't bore the stock chrome bores), teh 2.5 can be overbored or even have the sleeves repalced(if you want to spend that much). the biggest thing I would look for on this motor( after the obvious of compresion, fire, corrosion, etc) is the swivel shaft(where it pivots when you steer), with the motor trimed down, pull up adn back on the lower unit and see if there is any slop in the pivot shaft, beware of signs of fresh grease on the grease fittings and the swivel shaft ends, thick grease can tighten up a worn out one for a short period of time. The swivel can be fixed if worn out, it just takes a lot of time and effort. you see it worn out a lot on kingfish boats from low speed s turn trolling
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  #6  
Unread 07-18-2008, 10:04 PM
bigshrimpin bigshrimpin is offline
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Those bottom yokes give me nightmares :) working on saltwater motors . . . you eventually convince yourself that rust is just a very strong weld.
When I go back to CA . . . I'm going to buy all the steering arms and bottom yokes I can find.

Last edited by bigshrimpin; 07-18-2008 at 10:14 PM.
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