V2o Steplift

THEFERMANATOR · #1 05-08-2008, 10:08 AM

Make sure and check the areas circled in red VERY closely. The lower keft area appears to have screw holes that are open. The upper left in the picture appears to have cracks in it from the photo(weakining transoms often start to show up in this area first). And the lower right is more screw holes. As for a jack plate it could be used, but the problem will be you wouldn't be able to trim your engine up as the cowling would hit the transom. You either have to cut the 25" down to a 20", or make your 20" shaft a 25". WELLCRAFT offered the V-20 with either a 20" or 25" transom from the late 70's to the mid 80'd. Early on they were all pretty much 20" since that was a long shaft, and later on 25" was the standard.

nymack66 · #2 05-18-2008, 11:06 AM

I have since started the careful process of stripping and sanding. Stripping the area that’s really bad and sanding the other areas.
This is what it looks like after sanding with a very course orbital sander.
Next week it will be sanded down again.
Any ideas what the “gray” looking stuff is its not paint for sure looks like the protection for the fiberglass.
I am open for ideas in regards to primer, type for the bottom and sides, number of coats etc.
I have no idea and kindly seeking ideas.
Thanks to all who post to this forum, your ideas and sharing your experiences are great and very helpful.

randlemanboater · #3 05-18-2008, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

As for a jack plate it could be used, but the problem will be you wouldn't be able to trim your engine up as the cowling would hit the transom.

Unless you get a hydraulic jackplate, then you could raise it up to tilt.....man, that would be cool.....expensive but cool.

THEFERMANATOR · #4 05-18-2008, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randlemanboater

Unless you get a hydraulic jackplate, then you could raise it up to tilt.....man, that would be cool.....expensive but cool.

Seems a bit pricey to as a used hydraulic jack plate will fetch $500 around these parts, new is right around $900-1000. But I do have to say that is a creative idea RM. I seen one guy use a 10" setback manul jack plate to put a 20 on a 25. It gave him enough room to trim it out for running, just couldn't trim it up and get it out of the water.

nymack66 · #5 05-24-2008, 07:32 PM

Well following your suggestions I decided to mark and cut the transom down to fit my 20 inch motor.
Well I got more that I bargain for, Ferm did raise some questions after looking at the previous pictures I posted, he was correct the transom wood is completely soaked after cutting down the five inches as shown, the wood is all wet but not rotten the plywood separated from each other easily almost like they were not glued together (see pieces of wood separated).
Question is can I ignore it for at least another six months and pour a new one or I MUST address it now.
My thoughts is to bolt up my engine and run the summer lakes only and drive accordingly
Reason is I am about to move and is also strapped for cash.
Please advice, I will consider all ideas.

THEFERMANATOR · #6 05-24-2008, 10:14 PM

That looks like freshwater rot to me, so I wouldn't dare try and run it on plane. Once it begins to delaminate, it will break. Try the NIDACORE or ARJAY pourable and repair it that way and be done with it. If your other V-20 is useable, why not keep it until you can redo this one?

nymack66 · #7 05-25-2008, 07:33 PM

You are so right Ferm, Thanks for the advice; I will slowly start to chain saw the old wood out and clean it up. Which one will you recommend base on the fact I am in Orlando and you familiar with the climatic conditions.
Arjay or Nadacore ?
Ferm do you think I should take this approach or the one on this site where a chain saw was used?
http://transomrepair.com/SkinRemoval
The one show on the hyper link seems to make the removal of the rotten wood easier ..
Please let me know , I will start tomorrow.

THEFERMANATOR · #8 05-25-2008, 07:56 PM

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...hlight=transom

I'd follow this thread for the how to on it. And the ARJAY 6011 is made in SARASOTA I believe so the shipping should be pretty reasonaeable to ORLANDO. I believe NIDACORE is made in the MIAMI area, but is basically the same as the ARJAY from what I have been able to research on it.

nymack66 · #9 07-20-2008, 10:18 PM

I have since completed the sanding and preparation for painting, I also cut down the transom for my 20***8221; Evinrude, I will glass over the top of the expose wood on the transom and paint along with the rest of the pending paint work.
Problem is this, I need to paint the boat white both sides and bottom ( I will stripe it on the sides) and be able to use the same primer and paint on the sides and the bottom, I have no need for anti fouling paint since this boat is used on the weekends here in Florida more damage from above that below :)
I can***8217;t seem to find a primer and paint listed for the complete job in other words it seems like ***8220;Topside***8221; and ***8220;below the water line***8221; is what is presented to me.
Question is can I find and affordable solution to paint both sides and the bottom using the same primer and paint?
Or do I have to go Topside paint and primer and anti fouling blue below the water line?
Also is there a primer for anti fouling.
Please see pictures and give me some ideas. I really thought the sanding part was hard until I went to West Marine shopping for paint.

bradford · #10 07-21-2008, 12:22 AM

I'd talk to a couple people here that have painted their boats recently before a gave any of my hard earned cash over to the shylocks at west marine. A fellow with the screen name khied comes to mind with a chris craft scorpion.