Swapping Motors... A few questions...

[Bygracealone]

Guys, I haven't looked closely yet as I haven't had the time, but will the engine swap between the Hydra (1991 225 Evinrude) and the V (1996 Johnson Ocean Pro) be as simple as I expect it to be? I believe they both use the big red plug. Do I have to swap controls as well? I hope not...

Also, should I try to continue to use the system check gauge that's currently hooked up to the Ocean Pro? It would be nice to have the alarm in case the engine overheats... By the way, right now the alarm goes off upon startup for a few seconds, then turns off, but the oil light comes on... I've been running premix the whole time, so I'm not worried about the light, but I'd like to disconnect the VRO altogether. Do you have to disconnect one of the wires going to the gauge as well so that the alarm doesn't go off for the missing connection to the oil resevoir?

I saw the thread Skools posted on how to disconnect the VRO, but is it really as easy as that on the later models too? The Evinrude also has the VRO still hooked up and running. I want to disconnect it on both of them. A local outboard mechanic is telling me to be really careful and he's recommending that I keep the VRO going... I'd rather not.

One more thing... I have premixed fuel in the V, straight gas in the Hydra. I don't know for certain how many gallons of fuel I have in the Hydra. Previous owner said he thought there was about 50 gallons... What should I do in order to make sure I get the 50:1 ratio??? Do I have to empty the tank and refill?

[THEFERMANATOR]

In 95 the harness changed on the JOHNNY-RUDES, but there is an adapter available to connect the newer engine to the older harness. But I believe you'll lose your system check guage with the adapter. The control cables should hook right up though. I persoanlly get rid of the VRO, DON'T TRUST EM AT ALL! I mix it 50:1 with PENNSOIL synthetic blend, but I know SKOOLS goes 40:1. And your fuel tank should be 84 gallons, so you could add the oil to it and top it off with fuel. Or start emptying it out into your other vehicles and some fuel cans and add the V's fuel back into it.

[Bygracealone]

Ferm, what do you think about the system check gauge? Is it worth trying to keep?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Your major hurdle will be hooking the 91 up to a system check harness. The syatem check system seems alright, but not a requirement. The only real advantage is that the system check turns on a light telling you which system is malfunctioning, but with the VRO disconnected the only warning will be from an overheat. At the minumum make sure and install a self test horn(3 wire) if you use the old style harness on your 96. The self test horn will still alarm for about 2 seconds on start-up like the system check does. The main difference is that the system check guage controls the horn since it only uses a 2 wire horn, and the 95- had a self test feature since they simply grounded out the signal wire to turn it on.

[Bygracealone]

Hmmm.... Sounds like I might just want to swap motors and harnesses? Would that be easier?

[THEFERMANATOR]

That would probably be the simplest way. The 96+ with the system check uses the modular harness with 3 or 4 plugs, whereas the 95- used the big red plug with a trim and tilt harness seperate.

[drj]

I personally would switch the harnesses and the motors. I like the system check on my 96 200 johnson. I think it would be worth keeping if its not a big deal to switch the harnesses.

[Bygracealone]

Guys, I'm a bit confused (not surprising...). Here is what I have on the V20. There's a red cable connecting the engine harness to the control harness?



Then, at the control box, I had to jerry-rig it to connect to the red plug on the control box (I took it from my old 85 Evinrude and spliced it together so that I could use the plug with the plug on the control box. Did I simply make my own adapter by doing that? Also, does that mean this control box was for an older OMC? Here's what I did:



Here is the control box on the Hydra with the 91 Evinrude:



And this is what it looks like underneath (notice, there's no red plug):



It looks like the same control as this one on Ebay:



Any further advice? I'd like to keep the control that's currently on the Hydra, but it looks like I might have to swap them out too?

Skools, would you like to be my superhero? Feel like taking a short roadtrip to MD? :-)

[cterrebonne]

yeah they rigged it. you need a new harness from the controlls to the engine. and then just hard splice the new harness back to the controll box. also your box is a newer style and the one on ebay is older than yours. your warning system might work, worst case scenario you need a horn and sys check guage.

[drj]

Im not sure if this will help you but that control is the same type we have on our 1996 200 johnson.