Floor repair

I agree, you'll find more wet wood then you think. Cut a whole larger then your work area, be sure to cut on an angle 45* works well not too deep, don't want to cut the stringers. Sand/grind area of floor outside whole to take new glass. Epoxy all the wood, place it back, and begin by glassing the patch back. Start a few inches larger then the wood you replaced and then a secon piece larger then the first. You should be able to paint back or maybe even tint the repair to match.

That's how mine started, now she sits in the yard with no floor at all. Or maybe you just need a new access hole and a hatch, then no replacing anything.

I agree, you'll find more wet wood then you think. Cut a whole larger then your work area, be sure to cut on an angle 45* works well not too deep, don't want to cut the stringers. Sand/grind area of floor outside whole to take new glass. Epoxy all the wood, place it back, and begin by glassing the patch back. Start a few inches larger then the wood you replaced and then a secon piece larger then the first. You should be able to paint back or maybe even tint the repair to match.

That's how mine started, now she sits in the yard with no floor at all. Or maybe you just need a new access hole and a hatch, then no replacing anything.

Maybe this describes it better.

1. Make sure to use Marine grade plywood (or at least hardwood plywood). Resin will not stick to pressure treated or pine.
2. When you cut out the old floor, cut on a 45 degree angle so your new flood (also cut on a 45) will have something to joint to. Sand everything, wipe clean, use tack cloth.
3.Wet out both sides, and all edges with a thinned out coat of resin. Make sure to wet out the exposed old floor as well.
3. Use a structural fiberglass, stiched bi-axle works well. Cut to fit leaving at least 3" of overlap. Wet out fiberglass, then put to floor and roll out with a metal roller. roll, roll roll. Make sure you get out ALL air bubbles, or you will get to know your sander all too well.
4. After it cures, put a second coat of resin down to "level".
5. Sand and paint (or Gelcoat).
till it looks like a factory finish. Make sure when you are installing your captains chairs, you predrill and put resin in all of the holes to avoid water.

Maybe this describes it better.

1. Make sure to use Marine grade plywood (or at least hardwood plywood). Resin will not stick to pressure treated or pine.
2. When you cut out the old floor, cut on a 45 degree angle so your new flood (also cut on a 45) will have something to joint to. Sand everything, wipe clean, use tack cloth.
3.Wet out both sides, and all edges with a thinned out coat of resin. Make sure to wet out the exposed old floor as well.
3. Use a structural fiberglass, stiched bi-axle works well. Cut to fit leaving at least 3" of overlap. Wet out fiberglass, then put to floor and roll out with a metal roller. roll, roll roll. Make sure you get out ALL air bubbles, or you will get to know your sander all too well.
4. After it cures, put a second coat of resin down to "level".
5. Sand and paint (or Gelcoat).
till it looks like a factory finish. Make sure when you are installing your captains chairs, you predrill and put resin in all of the holes to avoid water.

[garagenc]

Thanks everyone I think I have a general understanding and with all the ideas I can use something from all the responces.
garagenc

[garagenc]

Thanks everyone I think I have a general understanding and with all the ideas I can use something from all the responces.
garagenc

[Skools Out]

just call Frayed he isn't far from you is he? he has plenty of resin and he just did his floor hatch

[Skools Out]

just call Frayed he isn't far from you is he? he has plenty of resin and he just did his floor hatch