Cleanup Time

[tsubaki]

Yes that is the coarsest I could find. And I suggest useing caution if you have never used a buffer to any great extent. I painted automobiles for 5 years out of high school.
In my case, the boat hasen't been washed in at least 5 years, much less waxed.
You may not need as coarse a compound as what I got.

[Skools Out]

lol yeah that would have been my responce too. that Poliglow works good used it on the motorhome and i'm going to test it on a few of my boats and may even try it on my Vette lol

[tsubaki]

That stuff Skools suggested may save you more work and aggrivation than the cost of the product.
I'm going to try it on the hull and interior. I'm going to be sick of the buffer when thru with the upper deck.

[boatnluvr]

When you use compound with a buffer, do you have to apply with a foam pad on the buffer, wait for it to glaze dry and then remove and polish with a bonnet? Or can you apply and buff all at once with a bonnetor foam pad? As you can see, I did not paint cars for 5 years out of high school. I am agreeing with the suggestions to use polyglow or Vertglas, but I still have to get rid of the layer of chaulky oxidation first.

[Skools Out]

hey Boatn that Poli Glow Kit with the prep will remove the chalky stuff too, you just clean with the prep and their scruber and the apply the poli glow polish

if ur gonna buff, be carefull. buffing compound is liquid sandpaper. so wrrk in stages like sanding. working ur way up to a fine grit polish. use a spur or screw driver to keep ur pad clean. what you are worried when buffing is burning the finish. this comes from going to slow, dirty bonnet, or rolling onto the edge. it is exactly what it sounds like. buffer will build up heat and burn the finish. be extra careful on edges. make sure to position the buffer so that as it turns it 'rolls off' the edge.

and wear an apron and move ur wifes car far away. when you think you got it far enough, move it a little farther.

[tsubaki]

twisted's right and Skools I believe has the best approach for nondamaged gelcoat for the long run.
When buffing we used to get in a metal gallon bucket of compound and knock a hole in it about 2" round so as to be able to put a paint paddle in it. With the paint paddle we would smear or slap the car, dotting the compound around the area to be buffed.
The newer stuff you can scoot out the bottle on the area but the best way is to apply an even coat with a rag across the location to be buffed.
Buff immediately and when thru wipe off with a clean wrag and then start with the polish.
You must polish after buffing, the area is basically virgin and will hold stains easily.
Again I like Skools approach if just getting the shine back.

[macojoe]

I just use it till the flys are all over it, as the case today!! But I am going fishing again tomorrow so I know care!

Tomorrow I will just bleach the crap out of it and go again, I have had my boat 8 or 9 years, never seen a drop of wax!! ;) ;D

[boatnluvr]

Originally Posted by macojoe

I just use it till the flys are all over it, as the case today!! *But I am going fishing again tomorrow so I know care!

Tomorrow I will just bleach the crap out of it and go again, I have had my boat 8 or 9 years, never seen a drop of wax!! *;) ;D

I agree MJ, but having just spent about $13000 repairing this boat, I would like it to at least look like it never sunk. Plus, I have to take pics for the insurance and we all know shiny is better.

Thanks to all. I will be taking the easy way out with one of the polishes and I'll save my sander and polisher for the heavy fiberglass work remaining. I'll take some before/after pics this weekend.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by boatnluvr

Tsubaki, Is that 3M compound OK for gelcoat? Looks heavy duty.

Still, *Did you use the Oxidation remover from Vertglas?

I am thinking....get a shine on it for now and then perhaps a more detailed job in the fall.

Thanks Guys!

Sorry for not responding quicker. I used the oxidation remover but I think using soft scrub and giving it good scrub down would do just as good. The main thing is to get the boat very clean as you will seal in anything left on the glass. The stuff works and I would buy the big bottle the 10inch, 4inch brush. Then go to the hard wear store and get one of those long plastic containers for holding drywall compound. You scrub down the boat then wash it down real good getting any left over gritt from the soft scrub off. Pore the stuff in the container and start with the hule using the 10" brush and use the 4" for tight spots. On their site they give good tips so read them first. The main thing is it will take around 6 coats but they go real quick with that wide brush. Do not put it on thick and watch for any runs as you can see them.