New lead

[bigshrimpin]

Looks like the dealer has taken it off ebay. Maybe we'll see some pics from chesapeake soon? ;D

[chesapeake724]

One step closer, gents. I put some 'good faith' money down and offered the eBay starting price. Since there were no bids, the owner accepted, and they pulled the ad.

The boat belongs to one of the yardworkers at a dealer, and the boss is just helping him sell it. I wish I saved the pics before they changed it, but they're pretty representative for the most part. Hull's sound. There's no evidence of repairs and all 'love taps' of the mallet reported solidly. Topsides could use some restoring. The seller's dad is handy w/ woodworking, so he actually remade the rod box inserts out of teak. It's a little dark for my taste, but it looks nice. Deck has some soft spots, but none that need immediate attention. The panel above the gas tank needs replacing sooner, but the plus side is that I can get in to see the gas tanks, stringers, etc. Seller says there aren't any problems with that stuff. (I know, a seller's supposed to say that, but this guy seems on the level. He works on boats, he doesn't sell 'em. Definitely did not get the used-car-salesman vibe.) The compartments at the transom had the liners taken out, so you can see into the bilge pretty well. Looks pretty clean. Cabin is clean, windshield frame is fine, and hatch hardware is good. Electronics will have to be upgraded, but are serviceable.

Story on the motor is that is was rebuilt 20 hrs. ago, but the flywheel magnets need replacing. As far as I know, the flywheel itself is fine, and the owner even offered me the part. Part of the r&r was to replace the stator, and when the magnets went bad, the seller wasn't keen on having them 'glued back on' after dumping a load of cash already. Steering and trim & tilt work. VRO is disconnected and seller has been premixing. Motor looks to be in as good a condition as reported. For the price of the whole rig, I can't expect too much out of the engine, but I'm thinking I can spend less than $1k to get it up and running and will run it until it dies.

That's about it. She needs work, for sure, but I think she's worthy of a makeover. The Admiral was much happier hearing the price than when I was courting that '93 for $9800. I'll probably pick it up and close the deal late next week and will be sure to post pics as soon as I get her to her new home. ;D

[Seacrets]

Congratulations. Welcome to the club.

[bigshrimpin]

congrats chesapeake!!! That's a great deal . . . I don't think you could have done much better. Recoreing the fuel hatch and fixing small soft spots in the deck isn't too difficult. Just take care of them sooner rather than later.

I'll send you some links of you plan on doing this yourself.



ALso if you like me to create an album for you in the gallery, just give me a shout.

[macojoe]

And that is a picture of what?? BS

Good deal!! Wish you lots of luck!!!

Just remember a boat is always a restoration in progress!! I tnever ends!! I figure it takes me 2 to 3 seasons to get it set up the way I like it. I have had 4 boats and this is always the case!!
Just don't start drilling holes to mount stuff that you are not sure of. You will move things around and have holes all over!! I no I did it!

[chumbucket]

Ya done good Chesepeake. I agree that for the asking price, I don't think you could have done much better.
Good luck.

[bigshrimpin]

MJ - It's picture of the inside a seacraft hatch where the bottom skin and rotten core have been removed. Working from the bottom of the hatch allows you to keep the original gelcoat non skid surface (top skin) and recore the hatch.

Congratulations, CPK!

Since you seem to genuinely appreciate alternate viewpoints, here is mine:

1) Keep your eye on the prize - the v20.
That is what the deal was about for you - right.
Hopefully, the HULL is in as good shape as you perceiv eit to be. You need to focus very carefully on the transom and the stringers - especially where they meet the transom. Now that this is your boat, don't be afraid to poke around. Drilling a small test hole into the transom and stringers from inside the hull is no big deal. Get a real good idea of what you have - before you start investing your resources in repairs and upgrades of lower priority. At the risk of sounding negative, the more you look - the more problems you will find. But don't despair, because a 1987 hull is likely to just be beginning to show problems. If you want this boat for yourself and for the long haul - then you want to find problems NOW so that you can nip them in the bud and prevent them from becoming bigger problems.

2) The motor.

It is too big for your v20. It will cause and accelerate any hull problems. It will burn way more gas and oil then you want to buy. Fix the flywheel and get it running as cheaply as you can. But do it right. You have all winter to do this. You can probably pick up a used flywheel cheap if you take your time and look around. Winter is the best time in the northeast to find a mechanic to do the work if you are not doing it yourself. Hopefully, you have or can get documentation on the rebuild. That will help you on your resale price. With luck, you will get the lions' share of your initial outlay back. Repower with the best carbed 150 2 stroke your budget will allow, AFTER your are satisfied with your hull.

3) THE TRAILER

Looks too small. If you are gonna be any kind of a trailer boater - sell it and buy one of sufficient GVWR for a fully loaded v20.

4) Electronics
Upgrade as you see fit when 1,2,3 are done.

5) kEEP POSTING :)

[Mac_Attack]

Con grats CPK724. Now that you have your V20, just like the others have said, be like the old bull and walk down the hill and do it right! Please post pictures I like to see how others do their projects. Bill Mc ;D

[bigshrimpin]

Seakindly is giving you some good advice, but I have a feeling like all of us you're on a bit of a budget. I just have a few comments to add here.

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235 is not too big, but it's thirsty:
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85 was the year that OMC switched over to rating the HP at the prop shaft instead of the powerhead. It's also the last year that OMC produced the 235. From what I understand the the 235 actually puts out less than 200hp (at the prop) and at 396lbs it's lighter than any 2 stroke v6 on the market. I would expect around 2gph @ cruise with that engine (might be more).

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The trailer looks like the original load-rite roller single axel trailers that was commonly package with the v20 in the late 80's. The rating should be around 3600-3700lbs. If I'm correct then this will work fine. However , If you have a small tow vehicle or are planning on trailering distances . . . then a dual axel trailer with brakes will give you much better performance.

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