Replacement for 1980ish Evinrude control box

[ebol5]

This is two questions really... 1) Taking apart the old box (everything in the box which mounts on the inside of the gunwhale, probably can be seen in pic's on the gallery). It is stiff shifting, I have it opened and cleaned except for the shift lever going through the box has the Allen head bolt in the center, removed that but it doesn't want to come apart... I imagine it should come apart but is corroded or some trick? Are these two parts a press fit? If I can get it apart I might consider cleaning it and greasinig to see if it frees up some.

2) If I decide to replace the box, any suggestions? I have checked the internet and it looks like Teleflex has one (CH17000?), there is also a universal... It looks like they all have the connections for cables etc. exposed behind the gunwhale and require cutting a large hole in the gunwhale... any suggestions/experience on what control boxes work best and are easiest change out?

[Blue_Runner]

any suggestions/experience on what control boxes work best and are easiest change out?

Easiest to change out would be with one just like the one you got. I don't know much about it but if I remember correctly there's a pretty large range datewise that will work with the mid-eighties. Seems like 1996 is the year it changed but I'm really stretching my brain here. Best to wait til someone replies that actually knows the correct answer.

Good luck diver!

[tsubaki]

On 1) the plastic bushings in the outside center are usually the culpret. They look like a thin piece of pvc pipe. Either one where the shifter handle connects can cause that problem. These boxes are reversable for right or left hand operation.
Don't get too anxious, parts cost more than the unit.
If that ain't plane enough let me know.
Usually all they need is greasing (fill it up)
On 2) make sure the cables are adaptable for your year motor.
I agree with Blue, but if you do go universal there are a lot of choices.

[tsubaki]

Tip of my finger bushing location.

Don't remember which side stays or removes though :-/.

[tsubaki]

Oh, use "marine waterproof grease" (same as wheel bearings).

[Skools_Dual]

is it still stiff witout the cables in the box?

[ebol5]

I have yet to check that Skools. But I did get the shift lever handle to come *apart after a dose of PB Blaster and a few (dozen) taps with a hammer. The two pcs, the handle (outside) and the Cam wheel (inside) are joined by a tapered spline and held by the allen head bolt. It wasn't corroded, just bound together thankfully...Actually, it doesn't look bad inside, I cleaned it up and greased it and will get to checking gear shift cable stiffness after I re-assemble. *
The one thing that is worn, and is the reason it has to be "wiggled" into neutral, is a small 3/8 dia. plastic pin that is sandwiched radially against the cam wheel by a spring loaded plunger and falls into a detent when the shift lever is moved into the neutral position. It is worn almost flat on the cam contact side so it no longer matches the radius of the detent *and doesn't seat right. I am now on a mission to find or fabricate a replacement pin. It basically is a 3/8" dia. pc of plastic rod about 3/8" long. So far the prime candidate is from the handle of a plastic mixing spoon that I cut off.. I will look around at Ace hardware etc (nothing at Home Depot) before I settle on the spoon handle. The pin is meant to be sacrificial, so I don't want to use metal or anything that would damage the cam.... *more later