Teak treatment question

[macojoe]

Perfect example on why I have starboard!!

Good work Hammer going to look like a brand new classic when finished!

[msbhammer]

Thanks M.J. Only put out 20 bucks so far. The look looks good, but I agree with ya on the Starboard. Love Starboard. Maybe in the future. Still need to save some cash to replace my volt reg. on the motor. Then the pulpit made out of Starboard. ;)

[lumberslinger178]

hammer , looks good on the restore after your all done and everything is back on the boat you wont be disappointed.... and by the way i need help sanding down the deck in the back yard are ya interested in helpin :o

[Sean]

Thanks MJ, I'm in Newport RI, so not to far away. I am going to get in contact with them today......

Hammer, looks good, I need todo the same for my cuddyt door ::)

[Geekie1]

Hammer, I don't want to rain on your parade, but Minwax Poly is for furniture and not intended for marine use. The only Minwax product for marine I know of is "Helmsman". Tried Helmsman and it didn't last. You will be refinishing or going the Starboard route next year. Starboard, Seaboard, Sikkens Cetol, are expensive products, but they do the job because marine use is what they were created for. I have pulled the V20 rod boxes, stern bilge hatch, cabin door for refinishing the teak and will post pictures when complete.

What I do to clean the teak is a solution of bleach and water and very little scrubbing. (unless the teak is really stained badly or someone put on a coat of varnish, paint, or poly which I use stripper to remove) The bleach and water turns the uncoated teak from gray to natural new teak color without really much work. By uncoated I mean bare wood that has maybe been only treated with teak oil. I like the look of teak oil, but don't like putting it on the wood about twice a year. The bleach and water will raise the wood grain. I let the cleaned teak dry. Then I sand the raised grain with a random orbital sander which is the most labor intensive part of the refinishing job. Then I apply 3 coats of Cetol Light, lightly sanding with a fine 3m pad between coats. I may need to clean and scuff up the Cetol finish in about 3 years to apply 1 coat of finish on top of the old finish. My boat is winterized and covered, but I will try to get a picture of my teak stern bilge hatch door that I just finished last weekend and post it. Took me about 3 hours cleaning, sanding, and coating not including drying time. I know this process works because this is about my 10th boat that had finished wood from mahogany, cedar, oak, teak, etc. somewhere on it and I have tried it all and made alot of mistakes!!!

[msbhammer]

Lumber, I'll be bringing my palm sanded to help ya sand. *;D
Geek-1, yeah, I know Minwax is for insde wood. The Minwax was 5 bucks compared to 27 bucks at West Marine and I was able to choice my red wood color stain.
I plan on coating the stain with Man-o-war clear coat. This will give it a hard shell coverage and protect the stain. That is what I am hoping will happen.

Damm, now I'm worried. Checked the wood and stain is still tacky, but its in a cold room with no heat. Just turned on a space heater to help dry.

[macojoe]

How many people need Starboard, maybe we can get a group discount?? ;)

[bassarama]

:)

Bass , you do nice work .... you lookin for a job

Thanks. No I'm not looking for a job, I have a good job. (so far) ;D.

This is something I like to do, it gives me challenge and it keeps me out of trouble ;D

I could't never afford to hire someone to build the stuff I've built around the house. ( house inclusive) ;)

I had a contractor giving me a quote for this room, he wanted 40k plus extras. I spent 8+k with everything, Nice difference hum? :o :o

[msbhammer]

Hey Bass, look for the UPS man, sent you my teak to restain and sand. ;D ;D ;D ;D

[bassarama]

I'll do it, one condition..... only if you send this one;




;D ;D ;D