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#1
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WOW.. That's some serious $$$. Most of us, when making major changes like that to the dashboard like to make our own dashboard. Go to home Depot and buy a 2'x4' sheet of Starboard. Nice, white, 1/2 in thick plastic. Design your own dashboard according to your needs. :)
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#2
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Did I miss the pictures?!?
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#3
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Nope. I talked a good game, so now I guess I've gotta deliver! :-)
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#4
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OK. It's not a photo, but here's a graphic of the wiring upgrade I'm considering.
Battery switch wiring plans draft - no name.jpg I've added a radar arch from Atlantic towers... but still need to wire up my spreader lights, antennas, etc. I'm also relocating the battery, adding a 2nd battery, and rewiring *everything* in the boat.... more to come on that, with pictures ... I *promise*I want to relocate the battery from the stern to under the passenger seat, and also add a second battery, and an automatic charging relay. I'm still trying to figure out if extra wire will allow the motor to start OK (suzuki DF140 2 stroke), or if I'm asking for problems. I plan to add 27' to each the positive and the negative leads of the starter circuit. I'd like to use 4 AWG tinned copper if that will work, but might have to go with 2 AWG -- although I really don't know if either will work or cause problems. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks! -Phil |
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#5
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IMO;
You are over-thinking/over doing it with the battery. Leave it where it is. I ran a V20 cuddy with zuke DF140 on a single Grp27 Dual Purpose battery. Did that for 12 years. Replaced the battery about every 5 years. I did not even have a battery on/off switch.(although I would recommend that). I had two sonar/chartplotters & VHF. I fished at night with lights. I ran 60 miles offshore. Kept boat in water all season. If you need 2 batteries for peace of mind, an ACR will work but you might be able to use an aux charging wire from your DF140. With 2 batteries you need to decide how to rig it. Are you going to use one for HOUSE 12V and the other for dedicated Start battery? You going to use a 1/Both/2/OFF switch? BTW, If your battery ever goes underwater you have bigger problems than what happens to the battery. As for the 7" display, get some 1/2" Starboard and make a new flush mount dash. You say "DF140 2 stroke" A DF140 is a Four stroke. A DT140 is a Two stroke I can't see your diagram post...
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 05-30-2021 at 12:23 PM. |
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#6
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Quote:
That's sound advice, and I did not know that the engine can support an aux charging wire, I will have to look in to that. For the usage. I plan to have one battery for start and bilge pumps, and the other as a house battery for everything else. That will give me the peace of mind that I can't kill my battery running electronics and find myself stranded. That's great to hear that you ran 60 miles off shore. I'd like to go off-shore too. Some people have said that I'm nuts, but I believe with proper preparation, the V20 should do fine... and preparation includes checking the weather forecast and staying home or close to shore if you don't like it. |
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#7
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I agree, my batteries are under the deck if they are covered with water it will be time for me to jump ship.
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#8
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Quote:
This one is for the re-wiring which is coming along. I bought this switch panel, which has 8 switches with circuit breakers. It comes with stickers for each function and it can be back lit. The switches aren't the best quality, but I think they'll do. I melted one of them by accident with my heat gun! I also re-wired the back of it... I'm using heat shrink connectors, and then putting heat shrink over that. Attachment 8212 It's time consuming, but I'm making progress!! Here are photos of some of the products I purchased and am using. I'll get photos of the install to post too. I decided to re-wire most of the boat! Last edited by pjbrownva; 07-02-2021 at 09:02 PM. |
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#9
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So.... is it just me?!?
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#10
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Nope. I looked and most of the photos didn't post.
I will take some on my phone tomorrow and try again.... I've got about 10 things goin' on at once! 1) I put in a bronze clam shell with a seacock, mounted a live well pump and a raw water washdown 2) I'm rewiring almost everything 3) 2nd battery install with automatic charge relay 4) Got a Raymarine Axiom+, the 7" model 5) Put on a fishing arch / radar tower from atlantic marine 6) Have spreader lights that can be white or blue 7) Have dual VHF radios each w/ their own antenna 8) Have an Icom Marine M-710 Medium and High Frequency radio -- 150 watts. I got the required FCC licenses, plus recently upgraded my HAM license to general class, so I can transmit on the HAM bands too. 9) Have a special antenna for the M-710, called an "outbacker"... it has a jumper where you move where a wire connects and still more... but I'll wait to show it, rather than just talk! |
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