Rebuild Repower

[Destroyer]

Foam is there to keep the boat in an upright position (no capsizing). It's not a guarantee that the boat will not sink, since the weight of the boat and items aboard (engine, etc) can effect that. Note that ALL foam will eventually become waterlogged if exposed to water, even the so called closed-cell type. However it will take years if not decades. When I redid my V21, after I removed all the old foam, I made sure all compartments that had new foam in them were sealed as best as possible to prevent any water intrusion.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Well just finished up sealing the stringers in yesterday. I ended up waiting a day to get some new mat. Sealed the top with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and then a layer of 6oz cloth. To make sure I got most if not all air. I fully wetted out the glass then used plastic wrap over the top to hold it down. Worked well.

I had the bow eye pad cut out and some extra resin so I put that in too. Once it was cured I over drilled the hole and then poured in more thickened resin so it will not rot this time.

[Myfathersson]

Nice progress! Feels good to hit those milestones don't it!?

[Pipe_Dream]

Originally Posted by Slightly_Twisted

Well just finished up sealing the stringers in yesterday. I ended up waiting a day to get some new mat. Sealed the top with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and then a layer of 6oz cloth. To make sure I got most if not all air. I fully wetted out the glass then used plastic wrap over the top to hold it down. Worked well.

I had the bow eye pad cut out and some extra resin so I put that in too. Once it was cured I over drilled the hole and then poured in more thickened resin so it will not rot this time.

That's great!

I'm pleased to see you guys making the effort to restore your V-20s. It's got to be gratifying.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Ok so I’ve disappeared since September, it is has been very busy!
Finished off all the stringers, Bulkheads, and side support/ bulk heads.
That really wasn’t that bad, I still had the temps for glassing just slowly picked my way though it. The next phase was where most of the time went. I almost bit off more then I could handle, I was going to buy a bracket mount it and be done, but it didn’t work out at all. I was looking for a used one and couldn’t find it, get 4 different quotes for news ones and the cost just made it impossible. So after reading and re-reading a few different builds I decided to build my own.
I had all the supplies other then the resin, so the whole bracket just cost 10 gallons of resin. What could go wrong hahaha!!

The mold ALMOST broke me. Trying to get the curve of the transom correct, the level of the tub correct, and have both sides identical took almost 2 weeks. I think I ended up redoing the whole frame work three times. I’ll try and describe what ended up working in the next few posts, right now I’m just going to do a photo dump and then edit the posts.


Once I finished up all the internal fiberglass, I drilled out the bilge drain to about 2 1/2 inches, the back filled with thickened resin.

[Slightly_Twisted]

The first picture is of the gas tank area. I couldn’t get it to fit right with a pvc pipe running under the tank so I made a false floor to enclose the tanks from the bilge. The area under the tank is more the enough room for water to flow.

The next is the lay out for the bracket, this wasn’t as bad as I thought. I was able to get all the information marked and was happy with the lay out. The curve on the transom has been a problem from the start, and continues to be a pain. I couldn’t use a straight edge like a level I had to use string and the mark every few inches for any mark going across. So the two semi vertical line on the outside are the edge of bracket tub the are angled about 15 degrees out from the center line. The two horizontal lines are the previous water line the lower one, and the higher up one is the top of the bracket 6 inches above the old water line. Then the bottom of the bracket is 3 inches above the bottom of the transom.

I had a 30 Aluminium sign we took Down from the soccer fields at work and thought it would be perfect for the mold. I ended up getting some melamine boards to use for the sides and back.

Will continue later

[Slightly_Twisted]

The mold itself took almost three weeks to build, the third attempt is the one that worked. I tried the two different way to prevent having to drill holes in the hull, it didn’t work. Daytrip1 from a few different boards has done two, and I copied his first build.
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic...59473&start=40

It work perfectly! Once I got the Mold correct I put 3 layers of PVA on it and started the layer up. I was shooting for 1/4 inch of thickness, so I figured that 7 layers of 1708 would match the hull. All the layers werehot coated and each layer was rotated 45 degrees of each other to and strength. After an 8 hours and 5 gallons resin I ended up with about 7/16 think glass! All sides of the bracket are close in thickness with the corners getting extra layers. On to the clamping board coring. This was SO easy without the curve of the transom to fight with. Used thickened resin to glue and screw three 3/4 marine plywood over night, then glued and clamped it in the bracket.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Really the only thing to note on these ones is the stringer extension holes cut. This was challenging, trying to make the holes long up perfect with the internal stringers? Lots of pilot holes and still was like 3/4 inch off on on.