'79 teardown and rebuild.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

suggestion...save all those pieces you cut because you will find many places where you wish you had a flat piece of solid glass already made.

...and pre-made corners!!!!

keeping the cap was a great idea..

What an awesome idea!!! Too bad I didn't come up with it before I hauled the stuff to the dump I kept the gas tank hatch thinking someone may need it as it's actually pretty solid. If no one wants it I'll use it for something I'm sure.

It sucks the shipping on most of this stuff would be outrageous because I'd rather give it to someone here then sell it locally, but if no one here can get any of it then I guess I'll throw it on Craig's and see if I can't get some resin money out of the stuff. My plan is to use all epoxy so that's gonna put a dent in the old wallet.

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

My plan is to use all epoxy so that's gonna put a dent in the old wallet.

If you're going to pour Carbon Core, remember that it is polyester resin. You should use poly in places where they will contact the wet pour.

the rule...as I was told... is you can use poly on hardened poly, Epoxy on hardened poly and epoxy on hardened epoxy, but you can't use poly on hardened epoxy.

So your transom skins should be patched/fabricated/tabbed/coated using polyester resin. Then when that and the pour is all set, you can go over it with epoxy for strength

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

If you're going to pour Carbon Core, remember that it is polyester resin. You should use poly in places where they will contact the wet pour.

the rule...as I was told... is you can use poly on hardened poly, Epoxy on hardened poly and epoxy on hardened epoxy, but you can't use poly on hardened epoxy.

So your transom skins should be patched/fabricated/tabbed/coated using polyester resin. Then when that and the pour is all set, you can go over it with epoxy for strength

I have also read that. Very useful information. Thanks. If I do the stingers I plan on laminating everything with a layer of CSM mostly to make sure there is no holes so if that's what I'll do I'll definitely use poly resin for that.

The inside of the hull is very rough woven roving with resin flung everywhere. I reckon Wellcraft figured out of sight, out of mind. So I plan on sanding it down and putting at least 1 layer of CSM on that also to give it a little smoother surface since now it will be visible. I'll probably use epoxy for that but that will be after everything is poured.

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

Too bad I didn't come up with it before I hauled the stuff to the dump

you should have kept the preformed hatch cutouts also....as Homer would say "DOH!"