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  #1  
Unread 11-11-2016, 09:49 AM
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https://www.facebook.com/19584498711...type=3&theater


don't know if link will work. 20" Lower unit for sale on Mercury site on Facecrack
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Unread 11-11-2016, 06:53 PM
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Have you checked out SEI, seems like good prices vs taking a chance on something from craigslist.
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Unread 11-11-2016, 08:37 PM
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Mike, my motor is a 25" shaft. Thanks though

Bradford, I'll take a look at them. I talked to my local Mercury shop and he has one that he replaced a year ago then the owner of the boat repowered. He said he'd sell it to me for $1000 and buying it from him will give me a guarantee on it. Right now that's my best option. Just waiting to get it back from the motor guy.
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Unread 11-11-2016, 08:46 PM
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Looked into SEI a little. $845 for a whole new lower unit. Seems like a deal to me. Comes with a 3 year warranty that covers anything. They even claim running with no oil or hitting a stump as covered. May be the route I go depending on shipping. I'm sure that can be expensive.
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Unread 11-12-2016, 08:33 PM
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A lower has some weight to it, but is a relatively small compact package. I'll bet shipping isn't a deal breaker.

Might ask Spareparts, he might have some experience with them.
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Unread 11-13-2016, 12:14 AM
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When I bought a lower for my 200hp Mercury 2.5L to convert it from a 20" to a 25" I think the total cost for shipping was less than $50... and that included the lower and the mid extension unit. Shipping shouldn't be that much.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer
1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer
1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer
All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango.


If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so
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(Leave the rest to God)

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Unread 11-13-2016, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroyer View Post
When I bought a lower for my 200hp Mercury 2.5L to convert it from a 20" to a 25" I think the total cost for shipping was less than $50... and that included the lower and the mid extension unit. Shipping shouldn't be that much.
Nice. Did you go with SEI? If so how has it performed?
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Last edited by 3 Squids; 11-13-2016 at 09:25 AM.
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Unread 11-14-2016, 10:15 AM
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sorry to see the problem with the transom. I was worried when I first saw your pic of the outside skin cut off. Not the best way to do it. People think its faster and easier than cutting the cap and going from the inside but then its all on you to shape it.

Question. Could it be that the holes are drilled in the wrong place or angled incorrectly? If you remove the bottom bolts and snug the top, can it sit flush?

Second.
Rather than shave it, consider adding to it to make a flat surface. Way easier. Use some EPOXY hard filler.
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  #9  
Unread 11-14-2016, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkBoat View Post
sorry to see the problem with the transom. I was worried when I first saw your pic of the outside skin cut off. Not the best way to do it. People think its faster and easier than cutting the cap and going from the inside but then its all on you to shape it.

Question. Could it be that the holes are drilled in the wrong place or angled incorrectly? If you remove the bottom bolts and snug the top, can it sit flush?

Second.
Rather than shave it, consider adding to it to make a flat surface. Way easier. Use some EPOXY hard filler.
No. it's definitely bowed. I put a straight edge along the transom and it teeter-totters like a playground toy. After thinking about it I agree adding material would be better than shaving it down. Guess I'll pull the motor off yet again and see what I can do with it. That's really the least of my worries right now as I gotta reconstruct the splashwell as well. He's got all sorts of 2x4's everywhere I guess bracing things up. Seemed a bit excessive to me. And as you said it had to be shaped back and it was not shaped back at all the way it was. Everything is kind of radiused now and looks terrible. I'm not sure at all how I'm going to get a somewhat sharp edge there without it being weak and breaking off easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroyer View Post
One picture is worth a thousand words, etc. I'm not endorsing this particular brand or dealer, but this is what a thread file looks like, as shown in the picture. They (the files) come in several different types, to cover all the different thread sizes that are on the market.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-IN-1-THREA...656516&vxp=mtr
I have seen those before. My dad alsways had a few in his toolbox but I never knew what they were. I'm going to get info on the threads and order one. Worth a shot.
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1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB
1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders
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  #10  
Unread 11-14-2016, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Squids View Post
I have seen those before. My dad always had a few in his toolbox but I never knew what they were. I'm going to get info on the threads and order one. Worth a shot.
I was a machinist for a number of years before I became a plant engineer. They work, and they work well. Saved many an item by using them. Just take your time, let the file do the work. Just lay the teeth into the groves and then work the file straight forward and back. Be careful to not work the file in an arc or a circle on the threads. Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy .
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer
1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer
1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer
All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango.


If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so
Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly.
(Leave the rest to God)

Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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