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#1
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I'm with Destroyer - even if you use marine grade aluminum you could still have galvanic problems.
I was considered putting my GPS/sonar in my dash but my fishing buddy suggested putting it on a swivel mount so it can be positioned for viewing when fishing in the back of the boat. It looks cool in the dash and if you only use it when driving the boat, the dash makes sense. The only thing keeping me from making a new dash from the Starboard I bought is how to label the switches. Does anything stick to that stuff or anybody have another labeling method?
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#2
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I have the bulge pumps, both, wired direct to the battery on float switches, is that not common practice?
The anchor light would be on a switch that's navigation-off-anchor, that's how I've seen most boats so I figured that's the correct way? I'm making it out of aluminum, painting it then wrapping it in vinyl, at least that's my idea at the moment. Starboard is such a pain to clean with the texture, traps dirt a little too easily any other ideas would be welcome as to dash material but it seems like a lot of guys use aluminum without much issue I like having the GPS/ff flush mounted, I have two and one is on a swivel so I can watch while fishing, it really is a nice touch
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84 v20 step lift 99 Johnson 175hp |
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#3
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Also your label point is a good one, I've yet to decide how I'm going to label the switches regardless, but starboard sire would be a pain!
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84 v20 step lift 99 Johnson 175hp |
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#4
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i flush mounted my furuno in the dash, looks cool, but hard to see at certain angles(usually when rounding up on a spot).
west makes a product called G-Flex that will stick to starboard. |
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#5
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Fuel Guage on an on /off or on ignition switch, momentary sucks, one person can't hold switch & pump gas at same time...ask me how I know...I have an on/off now but you gotta remember to turn it off and it freaks out passengers when they see Empty!
Nav/off/anchor- remember that NAV includes the all-around white(anchor). You need a jumper so when in NAV, the anchor lite is lit too. You need to switch your electronics! Especially if you unplug them, otherwise the power pin corrodes..ask me how I know.... I prefer switch panels(I keep adding more...) to stand alone toggles, that fixes the labeling problem. Are you running everything back to the battery or running a heavy gauge feed to a fuse panel under the dash? Starboard....
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#6
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You want the ability to turn on the pumps manually, in case the float switch(es) fail, or get jammed by something and don't work. On/off/auto. In auto the floats control the pump(s), in on you control the pump(s).
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#7
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Phat - I'll have to check with a local West Marine store for a small quantity of G-Flex adhesive. The only option on their website is 55 gal drums of resin & hardner for a total of just under $13,000.
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#8
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west marine has a small kit for around $25. they also offer it it different thickness. i used it to stick a piece of starboard on my transom and then screw my t'ducer to the starboard.
it helps when u "flame " it first. the kit has good instructions |
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#9
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I have 6 gauge running to a fuse panel in my cabin, stereo, both fishfinders, vhf and cabin light(has its own switch) are directly wired there, are you saying these should be on switches as well?
then bilge pumps direct to battery, maybe I'll reconsider that, destroyer brought up a good point, thanks! Sure beats reaching in the bilge and tripping the switch if I ever needed to Skunkboat, believe me I know the momentary fuel is a pain, I've dealt with it for a year so I figured ignition was the way to go, I should be able to just jump it from my tach so should be easy enough
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84 v20 step lift 99 Johnson 175hp |
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#10
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I set my fwd and aft bilge pumps with a manual on/off each and float switched straight to the battery (thru fuses).
Here are pics of my latest dash setup [IMG] [/IMG]I don't use the glass fuses in the large switch panel since 2 of the holders broke the first time I tried to look at them. I like the auto style fuses so I have a fuse panel inside. Its fed by 8 gauge with fresh crimped connectors on both ends. [IMG] [/IMG][IMG] [/IMG]At the battery I have a 30A main fuse terminal for the +feed to the dash. I put a ground bus there for organized connections. These are grounds for lights and pumps at the stern where it doesnt make sense to run a ground all the way back to the panel. There are Automobile style fuse holders for the float switch power to bilge pumps, up and out of the water and same type as in the panel. [IMG] [/IMG]
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 12-14-2015 at 10:27 AM. |
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