New dash ideas
 

Hey guys, last year after getting the boat I rewired everything up to the dash panel because I wasn't sure what I wanted to do with it.
With the season over im going to pull the dash and make a new aluminum panel to house my ff/gps, tach and fuel gauge along with a few toggle switches.
I'm wondering two things...
Currently my fuel gauge is run off a momentary on off switch, should I run that off ignition? Regular on off? I'm not sure how most of you guys run them
I'll have a nav off anchor switch, cabin/deck lights switch, momentary horn and that's it. Should I include anything else on switch? I'll probably add an extra dummy switch just for the future but figured I'd ask what else is a good idea to have as a toggle
Thanks in advance!

Bilge pump(s) -- on/off/auto (Two switches if you have two pumps)
White (all around) anchor light -- on/off Independent of the navigation lights.

And on a separate note, why would you want to use an aluminum plate for the dash? I'm presuming you are going to use your boat in the ocean? Aluminum will corrode from the salt air and salt spray. You may also encounter galvanic corrosion with different metals touching it (like copper for instance) IMHO a far better choice would be Starboard or, if you really want the look of metal, stainless steel.

Fuel gauge should be on ignition, not on a switch. Always live when key is turned on and engine running.

I'm with Destroyer - even if you use marine grade aluminum you could still have galvanic problems.

I was considered putting my GPS/sonar in my dash but my fishing buddy suggested putting it on a swivel mount so it can be positioned for viewing when fishing in the back of the boat. It looks cool in the dash and if you only use it when driving the boat, the dash makes sense.

The only thing keeping me from making a new dash from the Starboard I bought is how to label the switches. Does anything stick to that stuff or anybody have another labeling method?

I have the bulge pumps, both, wired direct to the battery on float switches, is that not common practice?
The anchor light would be on a switch that's navigation-off-anchor, that's how I've seen most boats so I figured that's the correct way?
I'm making it out of aluminum, painting it then wrapping it in vinyl, at least that's my idea at the moment.
Starboard is such a pain to clean with the texture, traps dirt a little too easily any other ideas would be welcome as to dash material but it seems like a lot of guys use aluminum without much issue
I like having the GPS/ff flush mounted, I have two and one is on a swivel so I can watch while fishing, it really is a nice touch

Also your label point is a good one, I've yet to decide how I'm going to label the switches regardless, but starboard sire would be a pain!

i flush mounted my furuno in the dash, looks cool, but hard to see at certain angles(usually when rounding up on a spot).
west makes a product called G-Flex that will stick to starboard.

Fuel Guage on an on /off or on ignition switch, momentary sucks, one person can't hold switch & pump gas at same time...ask me how I know...I have an on/off now but you gotta remember to turn it off and it freaks out passengers when they see Empty!

Nav/off/anchor- remember that NAV includes the all-around white(anchor). You need a jumper so when in NAV, the anchor lite is lit too.

You need to switch your electronics! Especially if you unplug them, otherwise the power pin corrodes..ask me how I know....

I prefer switch panels(I keep adding more...) to stand alone toggles, that fixes the labeling problem.

Are you running everything back to the battery or running a heavy gauge feed to a fuse panel under the dash?


Starboard....

You want the ability to turn on the pumps manually, in case the float switch(es) fail, or get jammed by something and don't work. On/off/auto. In auto the floats control the pump(s), in on you control the pump(s).

Phat - I'll have to check with a local West Marine store for a small quantity of G-Flex adhesive. The only option on their website is 55 gal drums of resin & hardner for a total of just under $13,000.