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#1
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your font is giving me a headache
you're putting it on a looper? Before you do that, make sure you have good fuel line, run a name brand primer bulb(Bomb, Yamaha, Merc) and see if you have an anti siphon valve in teh fuel tank outlet. You shouldn't have to have an electric fuel pump if everything else is in order. OMC offered an electric prime pump for a while |
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#2
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didn't sea drives have them?
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#3
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Excellent feedback Guy's, I was indeed thinking on keeping the mechanical pump in line and wire in this new pump as an auxiliary pump to a "rocker switch" use only for cold starting and run her on the mechanical pump at WOT etc. With fuel flowing freely through the free flow pump and regulator.
My proactive concerns is restriction at WOT with the vacuum pull having to suck through a Pump/Primer Bulb/regulator/pump/filter/ etc. With the mechanical pump connected I thinking it can boost the fuel pressure up out of tolerance for the Carbs.... Spare sorry about the fonts I did a few Cut & Paste from Ebay etc :) The cold starting at the ramp drives me crazy. Once the primer is primed and she started it starts at the bump of the key there after. Its clearly lack of fuel since I observe the primer goes very very soft before the hard starts. |
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#4
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The primer system on the OMC's requires you to pump the primer bulb up hard before you go to cold start it. The primer system uses the fuel pressure from the fuel pump to inject fuel behind the carbs, so if the fuel bowls are n't filled it will have to fill them before it can get enough pressure to push fuel through the primer system. Just be careful as alot of inline pumps require quite a bit of vacuum to pull fuel through them, and the V-4 doesn't have a fuel restriction sensor to tell you if there is to much restriction to the pump which can lead to a lean out situation. The extra fuel pump before the VRO pump will not lead to extra pressure as the VRO pump works off of the pressure going out of the pump. And I doubt you are, but your VRO will not work with the electric inline pump so you will have to premix.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#5
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Thanks Ferm, My VRO is plugged I am currently running pre-mix
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#6
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Install the fuel pump, I notice it is not exceeding 2 PSI? I bypass the motor and use it to pump all the old fuel from the tank looks like STA-BIL did its job, some curd and water was noticeable however.
I replace the fuel filter also, I will fuel her up with fresh fuel 50:1, spray some sea foam carb cleaner directly into the open carbs and bump the key. Stay tune :) Current configuration TANK>Fuel/Water Separator Filter>Fuel Pump>Regulator>Primer Bulb>Carbs |
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#7
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Oh how sweet it is to bump the key and she starts right on, I like to call it an ETEC start minus the cost. I still ask myself why I did not do this a long time ago. Basically I turn my ignition key on wait 10 seconds, press key in once release turn, honestly after the second turn on the switch she started up after 2 years no carb cleaning unbelievable. I will now heed advice and install a red Holley and keep this pump as spare ready to go with little field modification.
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