2001 Suzuki 225 HELP!!!

[THEFERMANATOR]

Not really sure as those engines normally just run. there is a shift interrupt switch on them that MAY be causing it, but I believe SUZUKI just dropped the timing back instead of killed 3 cylinders all together(not very sure though). They are good engines, and run REALLY strong considering they weigh 470 pounds(one of the lightest 225's ever built), but they had ALOT of corrosion issues. Look REALLY closely around the exhaust hub where the prop slides in as they are known to corrode and split the lower unit in that spot. This is such a common problem that lower units for them not split tend to fetch a grand easily.

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

Not really sure as those engines normally just run. there is a shift interrupt switch on them that MAY be causing it, but I believe SUZUKI just dropped the timing back instead of killed 3 cylinders all together(not very sure though). They are good engines, and run REALLY strong considering they weigh 470 pounds(one of the lightest 225's ever built), but they had ALOT of corrosion issues. Look REALLY closely around the exhaust hub where the prop slides in as they are known to corrode and split the lower unit in that spot. This is such a common problem that lower units for them not split tend to fetch a grand easily.

Hey Ferm, do you know what compression should on these older Suz's?

[reelapeelin]

Kracker, does the 500 include prop?...is it SS?...and controls?...if the answer to all these is yes....then get it fo sho...


A V-20 CC w/a 225 will be a A$$-HAULIN' MACHEEN!!...

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

Hey Ferm, do you know what compression should on these older Suz's?

Not to sure, but if I had to guess I would say in the 100-120 range. Just make sure they are al leven as these engines had problems in the first 500 hours or so with losing a cylinder. Engines that made it past 500 would normally run for 2000+, but they are not a standard design engine. So long as the bottem end doesn't lose a bearing(IE oil injection failure), they can be rebuilt without pulling the powerhead. They use a jug design where teh 3 cylinders come off seperate from the block. The down side is they use BORON coated cylinder walls, so repairs can get costly if it loses a cylinder. And teh crankshaft in them is a multi piece design whereas it presses together in pieces. The rods are 1 piece with no rod caps, most of the engine rides on 1 piece ball bearing assemblys, or 1 piece caged needle bearings. Very strong design that doesn't need alot of oil to be reliable, btu a complete bear to try and rebuild and requires ALOT of special tools to build. For $500 though you could part it out easily if teh lower unit is stil lgood and make a good profit. If the lower unit is bad though, then $500 is about all you will get. Electronics on them rarely fail, so chances are the electrical problem is a simple switch or a bad ground.

[Kracker Jack]

Well the motor was a flop. The first thing I looked at was the housing on the lower unit, I also noticed that the paint on the lower unit was "fresh" upon further inspection I noticed grinder or flap disk marks in the side of the housing. I finally got him to admit that the housing cracked and he re welded it!!!! So I ran as fast as I could!!!!!

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

Well the motor was a flop. The first thing I looked at was the housing on the lower unit, I also noticed that the paint on the lower unit was "fresh" upon further inspection I noticed grinder or flap disk marks in the side of the housing. I finally got him to admit that the housing cracked and he re welded it!!!! So I ran as fast as I could!!!!!

It was worth $500 if the engine was still good, but the lower unit is where all the money is at. Problem with welding em is it is welded together as they crack in teh threads that hold the bearing carrier in so you could never pull it apart. Probably best to pass on it as a good lower unit would set you back a grand pretty easily.