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#1
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I did a template like reel suggested but out of Lexan or Plexiglass.
Basically ran the top of the template to the bottom of the yoke of the engine and drew the holes and slots, then drilled and cut the holes and slots. Finding and measuring where the holes and slots should work for repositioning if needed. Starting point was the cavitation plate distance to the bottom of the yoke in relation to the transom depth. Usually allowing no more than 3/4" below the bottom of the boat but seeing if raising the engine is possible a couple of inches. Dang, I can't believe I found the one for when I raised the transom on the V for the jackplate and present engine.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#2
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cs, all of the above, except i used a left over political sign. easy to cut and mount on your transom to make sure you are centered. you might want to make the transom corners top side port to bottom side starboard and vice versa. this will give you the dead center of the transom and help centering. on my whaler, i had to make sure i could get a nut on the bottom bolt. it was origanally a 15" transom and i went with a 20" motor.
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#3
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Every one has posted good ideas and information, teh only thing i can add is if your bolting this thing on a 14 mcKee, add wedge plates, its probably the best thing I did on mine
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#4
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Quote:
Well DANG!!...when I saw you had replied to this thread, I thought you'd unleash some of your magic on this one!!...LOL!!...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#5
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Thanks guys. A lot of good ideas here. I still have some time as I need to fill what's back there now and then start hanging but I wanted to get a feel what I needed to do.
Spare- You talking like these? http://www.bobsmachine.com/Products/transom_wedges.cfm -Svence
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1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
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