Outboard Mounting
 

Does anyone have any hints/tips on mounting an outboard with new holes. Repowering an old McKee Craft and the Merc that came off is not the new style (had the external trim rams and weird bolt pattern). I have mounted numerous motors but this will be my first time drilling new holes. Is there a template I can get? I was hoping at least two of the holes would match up but no luck, so I will fill the old and start from scratch. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

-Svence

If you have the motor already that you are gonna mount, MAKE your own template...masonite board is what I would suggest, although corrugated cardboard would probably work, too...tape it to the inside, insuring it WILL NOT MOVE, then mark the holes and drill 'em out, being sure they are CENTERED...then position the template on the transom where it'll allow for up and down mounting allowing for use of all holes...drill the transom where the holes will work for adjusting top to bottom of bracket...

I just did the opposite from standard to the weird merc... what I did was hang the engine over the transom and use wood shims to make sure it was level... I measured several times and then drilled tthe first hole about 1/8" with a 1/4" bit... I moved the motor and drilled that hole through with my final size bit.... I put the motor back on, shimmed it, and bolted that one. I then drilled the rest of the holes 1/8" with the 1/4" bit and pulled the motor again to finish them...

I'd recommend a helper if available..... when you are drilling it is easy to drill straight on the horizontal plane but a spotter from the side can be very helpful to guide you on the vertical plane.

I had considered a template but I had to hang the engine to decide height and in my case it was easier to just drill. Your results may vary:head:

I did a template like reel suggested but out of Lexan or Plexiglass.
Basically ran the top of the template to the bottom of the yoke of the engine and drew the holes and slots, then drilled and cut the holes and slots. Finding and measuring where the holes and slots should work for repositioning if needed.
Starting point was the cavitation plate distance to the bottom of the yoke in relation to the transom depth. Usually allowing no more than 3/4" below the bottom of the boat but seeing if raising the engine is possible a couple of inches.
Dang, I can't believe I found the one for when I raised the transom on the V for the jackplate and present engine.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w.../templateV.jpg

cs, all of the above, except i used a left over political sign. easy to cut and mount on your transom to make sure you are centered. you might want to make the transom corners top side port to bottom side starboard and vice versa. this will give you the dead center of the transom and help centering. on my whaler, i had to make sure i could get a nut on the bottom bolt. it was origanally a 15" transom and i went with a 20" motor.

Every one has posted good ideas and information, teh only thing i can add is if your bolting this thing on a 14 mcKee, add wedge plates, its probably the best thing I did on mine

Well DANG!!...when I saw you had replied to this thread, I thought you'd unleash some of your magic on this one!!...LOL!!...:clap:

Thanks guys. A lot of good ideas here. I still have some time as I need to fill what's back there now and then start hanging but I wanted to get a feel what I needed to do.

Spare-
You talking like these?
http://www.bobsmachine.com/Products/transom_wedges.cfm

-Svence