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#1
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Two other suggestions: remove all of the wood from the boat before doing any refinishing. It takes a little more time at the outset, but the job will go much, much faster and you'll get much better results.
If the teak was previously finished with any hard coating or finish other than oil, first use Zip Strip to take it off. It works very quickly. You can sand immediately thereafter. |
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#2
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Quote:
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#3
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Don't get any teak oil or stain on the fiberglass, it stains almost immediatelty and is a pain to get out.
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#4
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you might look into the cetol route. i know a lot of purist like to oil. but i have better luck with cetol. little more work initally, but holds up longer without any re-coating for 3- 4 years.
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#5
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Phatdaddy:
I second your advice regarding Cetol. Superb product, and very durable. For those who have looked at my boat, I should clarify that all the teak is finished with one coat of oil-based natural teak stain, then three coats of Cetol Light (which I selected because it doesn't have the orange hue of straight Cetol), except the floor hatch covers, the cleat bases, the step pads, and the bow pulpit. I just stain and oil those horizontal pieces, because they routinely get knicks and scratches that would ruin any solid finish in less than a season. |
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#6
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I have always taken all teak off the boat. Then apply the teak cleaner with a stiff brush, let it sit for a bit, then power wash it off. Comes out looking brand new. Then sand down any nicks/scratches. Its very important to let the teak dry for several days. Then I use Cetol. It is expensive (around $35 a quart) but a quart goes a long way. 2 coats of Cetol should do it. The cetol will last for years.
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#7
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hey Fitz!! nice to see you here!!
__________________
1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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