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#1
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Be careful. Anyone who's ever painted anything with a Wagner Power Painter knows how frustrating it is to get half way through a job and have the damn thing clog up and start dribbling all over itself. I would be careful with cheap spray guns. If you decide to try it, make sure you filter the paint thoroughly, thin it per manufacturer recommendation and make sure the air getting to the gun is clean and dry.
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#2
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Both Guns shown are quite the opposite in regards to what you will be using it for. If the paint is thinned and good atomization is desire for a clean and smooth finish the first gun is your choice. Its what I used to finished my Cowling.
If its heavy or thick two part epoxy or polyurethane paint then the gravity HVLP is your best bet. Its what I used to shoot Gel Coat on my Hull. I will highly recommend you buy your paint first and test on a scrap material. Be sure to test at various pot pressure etc. I personally own both el cheapo guns shown, I however must mentioned also they are my favorite over my very expensive collections. Please pay attention to the tip size in your selection process Bare in mind I am the Guy who can't get paint to dry. See my Engine project in another thread :) |
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#3
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I like the gravity feed gune, you can run lower pressures, put more paint on teh surface and less blowing around in the air. If you buy a gravity gun, go ahead and buy two of the racks you set them in, you'll need one on teh mixing bench, and one near the job. Worst part about a gravity gun is you can't set them down
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#4
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Obviously, they are two different guns. I have the first one and I like it a lot. It's not quite as good as my DeVilbiss, but it's a good knock-off and it
gets the job done nicely. (and it's cheap enough that if I screw up on cleaning it I can just throw it away and get a new one) I've used it to paint a number of trailers before selling them and the finish has always been "like new". The advantage of a HVLP gun is, of course, the low overspray that you get and the thicker paints that you can spray. I don't own one so I cannot comment on their suitability for your application. Since overspray is never a problem for me I'd go with the first one. I like that fact that it can blast paint into tiny cracks and corners, which, for me, is important. I'm not sure if the HVLP could do that. Also, I cannot stress highly enough the importance of making sure that whichever gun you use, make sure the air coming to your gun is bone dry. Just a few drops of atomized water can (and will) ruin a paint job. Put primary and secondary filters on your compresser. It's cheap money compared to the need to strip and repaint.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. Last edited by Destroyer; 11-04-2010 at 08:50 PM. |
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#5
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I like the Binks HVLP guns in use with the binks pressure pot. The Sharpe 775 is a nice gun not to high in price and has nice spray pattern. the old trusty is always a Binks #7 best all around gun. the Binks 2001 HVLP is my gun of choice. your finish is only as good as the gun you use will allow.
cheap gun = poor paint job http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=14 ![]() here's the pressure version i use http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...001P%20Gun.htm ![]() now here is the Sharpe 775 i have 5 or 6 of these are good guns and good price cheap rebuild kits http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...%20SHP6835.htm
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's Last edited by Skools Out; 11-05-2010 at 08:39 AM. |
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