Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild

[nymack66]

Here is an interesting spin ..I phone there technical support, which recommend I read the "manufacture" instructions.
Here is what I found just added..I know this because I NEVER saw this posted before! I will give it a shot again as test run. I bet I violated the WFT the reason its not drying.

Finish Coats: Fiberglass, Aluminum & Steel: Professionally applied spray coat applications yield superior results, however Revolution levels exceptionally well in brush and roll applications. Unless you are experienced with spray equipment the best way for the do it yourselfer is to apply Revolution is by roller coat. When properly thinned in appropriate temperatures (SM-101 Thinner 15%-25%) Revolution levels exceptionally well. It had a good defoamer “bubble popping additive” so the need for tipping is eliminated. Aside from spraying, which offers the best film thickness control, rolling is often the best way to achieve the recommended wet film thickness, 2 mils WFT (Wet Film Thickness). The recommended DFT is 3.4 mils. Applications applied too thickly may not adhere or level properly, run, sag and take days, or even weeks to cure. Always adhere to the manufacturers recommended WFT and DFT (Dry Film Thickness)!

Revolution must always be stirred or shaken thoroughly before use. It may be brushed, rolled or sprayed utilizing conventional and HVLP spray equipment. The solid content is exceptionally high so thinning will be necessary in most applications. The amount of thinner required will vary depending on ambient temperature, type of equipment used, method of application, humidity, color and amount of control desired and tip size in spray applications. We suggest beginning with minimum dilution at first and increasing dilution as needed subject to your individual application requirements.

Revolution may be built up to achieve a higher DFT where desired. Two, three or more thin coats are acceptable to achieve the recommended DFT. Boot and bottom stripes should always be applied over top of the recommended DFT. For best results recoat within 24-48 hours or sand between applications. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before allowing it to enter full service duty. The recommended minimum cure time is 7 days under most conditions. DO NOT allow newly applied paint to get wet for a minimum of 48 hours. The dry cured film may be wet sanded and buffed to remove runs and blemishes.

[nymack66]

Moving along beyond painting. Here is where I am at the moment. I will have the cylinders hone, rods check at the machine shop.
Notice the scratches and miss spots on the paint? I will do final shoot this weekend. I have to clean up all the excessive grease off the bolts heads during the assembly process.
I ran taps through all the treads after the media blasting.
I am working on the Cowling and lower pans this weekend.
Some pictures ....



I am sure what the the deal is here with the primer coat but rest assured it will not be tolerated...

[THEFERMANATOR]

Don't worry about getting paint down inside of the exhaust ports as it won't hurt it. I would clean up the driveshaft though as paint build up there can cause problems later on as well as clean off the surface where the powerhead bolts down as I've seen em leak there as well.

[nymack66]

Will do Ferm thanks

[nymack66]

Anyone knows the reason for the foam under the cowling? Is it just insulation or is there more to it?
I personally remove it completely because it was all falling apart, my thought process is this loose foam will clog my carbs since there is no air filter!
I was thinking to re-lined it using AC heat shield stuff found at Lowes? or should I run her naked like my current motor?
Pictures of the foam removed, I will sand her down and paint it this weekend..

[Blue_Runner]

Doing a good job there mack. I think the cowling insulation is just noise reduction but I may be wrong. I'm sure there's no less than 100 different materials you could use to accomplish replacing it.....then there's always the option not replacing it too!

I would love to tear one down and build from the ground up like that. You'll be the resident expert when done. We're going to start asssociating you with hall of famers like Skools, Ferm and Spare.

[RidgeRunner]

Just for noise control, some have it, some don't. The insulation is gone on my 90 Johnson and the Merc too. You are right to be concerned about sucking the foam thru the carbs. Happened to a bassin friend of mine. Some of the foam pieces got hung in the reeds on his 225 EFI.
You are actually gonna paint the inside of the cowl? I thought I was anal... Keep up the good work.

[nymack66]

Originally Posted by Blue_Runner

Doing a good job there mack. I think the cowling insulation is just noise reduction but I may be wrong. I'm sure there's no less than 100 different materials you could use to accomplish replacing it.....then there's always the option not replacing it too!

I would love to tear one down and build from the ground up like that. You'll be the resident expert when done. We're going to start asssociating you with hall of famers like Skools, Ferm and Spare.

Skools, Ferm and Spare are my mentors, without the there knowledge and input I would have dump my V a long time ago..During my trials and tribulations with my Frankenstein motor and hull...