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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Good luck on the project.
		 
				__________________ *************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			OMC used to offer a thicker than standard head gasket for some of their motors for comercial use or when using lower octane fuel, I don't know if they are still available, but it would be what you need after decking the block.
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			good for you Mack, I would love to have the time and smarts to do that. Good luck and I hope it goes well for you. At the very least you will have learned a lot more than most of us will have ever learned.
		 
				__________________ Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Thanks for the advise and the words of encouragements, You Guy's hit exactly on two issues I was having second thoughts about, one I can easily address just use the new heads I have, the other in regards to the corrosion around the sleeves??? My plans for now is to dissemble the LU and Mid only to the point where I will get to the critical bolts to make sure they are all in removable condition for future access etc, I don't want surprises later on. It will also allow me to replace the impeller and inspect the water pump area not to mentioned drain the LU oil and inspection for contamination or metal shavings. I will not use the tilt and trim off this motor, since I have one in immaculate condition with new motor, the one on here shows some corrosion. I have since loosen the bolts on the mid and LU for soda blasting, I was soaking the bolts with PB Blaster since Sunday they are all loosen up now for removal, my tree shade mechanic last year worked on my old LU broke a number of bolts. See it pays to do this crap yourself. Rocking the bolts back and forth never force it or make them overheat trust me they were tough removing but I score :) Tip: Be sure NEVER to have the PB blaster come in contact with any rubber example the end caps of the tilt and trim it will ruin the seals. The installation of these bolts I will coat each one with High Temp Gasket Sealer so they can never freeze up, grease will not work here. One big word Electrolysis one simple fix! I have tried this on my propeller shaft and inspected it after a year slid off like poop out a goose. Sorry the high resolution photos may shift the view off I will re-adjust the camera next time Photos of Mid/LU Notice the paint job ? Not good at all painted over the sealant and all.           | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Ooh, you got one of them rare to find 25" ones that isn't rotted out yet. I've been looking for one of them for awhile now but they are all rotted out that I have found.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			What do you mean rotted out, from the inside Ferm, the lower unit rots from the inside?
		 
				__________________ Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			The steering arms are made of regular steel and are known to rust so badly that they will break off, I believe STINK had this happen to him on one. Also just trying to find a 25" leg V-4 140 looper is difficult in and of itself, let alone one that looks clean without massive corrosion on it. The hardest one to find though is the 85 25" leg 140, they have a special exhaust tuner in them that you can't buy anymore. They make HUGE power on the top end, but suck below 3800. My 140 has the 85 tuner in it and it runs it's best at the 6100 redline(86+ went to a 6700 limiter). I bought one here awhile back and when it showed up I was less than thrilled with this supposed freshwater mid section. If you want to get rid of that mid NYMACK, let me know. I'd love to be able to put my 140 on my HYDRA-SPORTS to save some on fuel, but it is currently a 20" shaft.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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|   Quote: 
 "Parting out a 1987 Evinrude 140 Looper (E140TXCUA). Starter, carbs, electrical parts, crank, complete mid & lower unit with working PTT and transom bracket, OMC side control with wire harness and new 18***8217; control cables, OMC OEM factory manual, cowl & mid cowl, plus much more" Guy told me he is parting out a good motor (blown power head) I negotiate him down to 400.00 and snag it on Black Friday. I now own the only two models 140 v4 Evinrude made in 87 the 25" and 20" looks like I be stuck in the 80's for a while :) | 
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