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  #1  
Unread 10-05-2009, 08:43 AM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Good job so far, as for the removal of the skin its a strong debate same as uing plywood or Arjay like I did, I removed the skin on my boat because it was tough to remove the plywood that was not completely rotten. See my project posted on www.nymack66.com. What is to be noted is NOT the removal but the emphases I placed on the re-attaching it back, My goal was to make the SKIN both inside an out stronger than before and trust me I did using MAT and resin. Just do the same if not better and you will be fine..Good luck and keep us posted ..Let me know if I can help in anyway ..
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  #2  
Unread 10-05-2009, 01:43 PM
BenFishin BenFishin is offline
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Default Mat - cloth

Im sure you meant cloth not mat. Mat is no good whatso ever for a transom. In the course of my research i hated tryin to decifer if the person actuall meant mat or actually cloth. HUGE difference. Its a common term used for fiberglass "material" MAT. You wanna use a biax fabric on the transom. And best to use 45 degree 1708 or 1208. but whatever you do dont use mat.
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  #3  
Unread 10-06-2009, 11:30 AM
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Skools Out Skools Out is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenFishin View Post
Im sure you meant cloth not mat. Mat is no good whatso ever for a transom. In the course of my research i hated tryin to decifer if the person actuall meant mat or actually cloth. HUGE difference. Its a common term used for fiberglass "material" MAT. You wanna use a biax fabric on the transom. And best to use 45 degree 1708 or 1208. but whatever you do dont use mat.

exactly as he said Mack if you used MAT you will have issues.
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  #4  
Unread 10-06-2009, 01:15 PM
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I agree that mat should not be the only material used for the transom but wouldn't you agree it is still ok to lay woven roven into a couple layers of mat, the old school way . Many of the stitched up multi directional products available today were not even invented when these boats were made. Mat can be your friend, hardware cloth on the other hand is more for surfacing IMO.
Marine grade plywood is nothing more than fir with exterior grade glue and cores with less voids. It can be pressure treated and dried after treatment or it can be purchased untreated. It can be laminated with vinylester resin but the surface is too smooth for much penetration so you have to rough it up with 60 grit to get a good bond. I know of several boat manufacturers that thin the first coat of resin when using the marine plywood for better penetration. They refer to it as a hot coat.
I prefer composite cores but they are high $$$$
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  #5  
Unread 10-06-2009, 02:54 PM
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Red face More pics

Thanks for your input. I have to make up 1-1/4" of transom wood was planning on the 3/4" marine ply that I already have, and can get my hands on some 1/2" cdx ply. Do you think this is ok to mix two different types of ply? Should I glue and screw them together or just glue? I saw some other guys made their transoms out of three pieces I have to do the same so I can get it to fit in. I was thinking of offsetting the seems between the 3/4 and the 1/2 for strength, what do you think? Also I have another post up with more pictures of the old Bilge area, any ideas on that? Thanks a lot for your thoughts!
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  #6  
Unread 10-06-2009, 07:38 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Sorry for my ignorance meant cloth not Mat old habits die hard :)
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  #7  
Unread 10-06-2009, 08:54 PM
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when I replaced the transom on my boat it had 2 layers of 3/4 plywood. I replaced it with 3 layers of 1/2. I figured the extra layer of epoxy would help. Plus the thinner plywood follows the curve of the transom better.
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