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  #1  
Unread 10-03-2009, 06:04 PM
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Joker2 Joker2 is offline
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Sorry about the pic of my daughter !
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  #2  
Unread 10-03-2009, 06:56 PM
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS NOTHING ELSE MATTERS is offline
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First off you shouldn't had cut the outer skin of the transom. What you should of done was cut about two feet the cap, unscrew some of the rub rail and remove tha section of the cap, then remove the inner layer of the glass and ALL the plywood, by doing that you still have the skin outside to use as a guide(our boats have bowed transoms, not straight), and also you could cut the floor about 2-3 feet in to tie the new plywood to the stringers(most likely the stringers back there are rotted too.

Now, what you have to do is remove the rest of the glass from the inside(at the last pic. shows that you have about a foot left), remove the rest of the rotted plywood and i think you still have to cut the cap away anyway. Sure looks like a big mess now but when you done is gonna be good for another 30 years or so. Use marine plywood, do be cheap on that, otherwise you gonna regret it later. Good luck and keep the pics coming.
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Unread 10-03-2009, 06:57 PM
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS NOTHING ELSE MATTERS is offline
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Oh, your daughter looks so cute, god bless her.
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  #4  
Unread 10-04-2009, 08:49 PM
BenFishin BenFishin is offline
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Yikes. thats gonna be tough. Marine plywood does not have to be used and as a matter of fact its proven to not be the best stuff. The chemicals in marine plywood do not allow full penetration of epoxy. A good idea would be to buy some very good grade birch ply or exterior ply and before installation put a few layers of resin on it. But make sure if you wait til it comepletly cures to sand or get a profile again for all subsequent laminations or glassing. i would recommend doing a lot of research on other transom projects on other sights such as classicseacraft.com classicmako.com there are a bunch more that i cant think of. Look into resin types, cloth weigths/angles etc. there is a lot more to it then the pics you see but there are tons of good documentaries on this stuff. Wish you the best of luck captn.
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  #5  
Unread 10-05-2009, 08:43 AM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Good job so far, as for the removal of the skin its a strong debate same as uing plywood or Arjay like I did, I removed the skin on my boat because it was tough to remove the plywood that was not completely rotten. See my project posted on www.nymack66.com. What is to be noted is NOT the removal but the emphases I placed on the re-attaching it back, My goal was to make the SKIN both inside an out stronger than before and trust me I did using MAT and resin. Just do the same if not better and you will be fine..Good luck and keep us posted ..Let me know if I can help in anyway ..
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  #6  
Unread 10-05-2009, 01:43 PM
BenFishin BenFishin is offline
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Default Mat - cloth

Im sure you meant cloth not mat. Mat is no good whatso ever for a transom. In the course of my research i hated tryin to decifer if the person actuall meant mat or actually cloth. HUGE difference. Its a common term used for fiberglass "material" MAT. You wanna use a biax fabric on the transom. And best to use 45 degree 1708 or 1208. but whatever you do dont use mat.
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  #7  
Unread 10-06-2009, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenFishin View Post
Im sure you meant cloth not mat. Mat is no good whatso ever for a transom. In the course of my research i hated tryin to decifer if the person actuall meant mat or actually cloth. HUGE difference. Its a common term used for fiberglass "material" MAT. You wanna use a biax fabric on the transom. And best to use 45 degree 1708 or 1208. but whatever you do dont use mat.

exactly as he said Mack if you used MAT you will have issues.
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