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#1
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It was design this way for safety reasons, any leak from the tank is contained in an isolated area away from the bilge pumps, hit the switch and you go KABUL :)
Reason for water in there is from your desk, you need to seal the hatch cover well with 5200 , use a "Marine" foam to enclose or mount the tank , Someone just posted his tank replacement he did a great job you may want to do the same. I did mine and use fresh resin to seal it off completely so if any leaks I want it to be contained to the area and foam , not in the bilge or the lake ! Here is mine been tested with water for leaks !
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#2
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This forum is priceless!
Makes sense now. In that case I'll need to make sure it's sealed properly. |
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#3
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Looks like somebody else ran into the 44" tank under a 43" hatch issue. What size pvc did you use? I tried to use 1 1/2" and the tank would not seat against the floor without "rocking" on the pvc.
RIBoater |
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#4
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do not foam in the tank. they have stopped doing that as it was the cause of tank failures. don't use 5200 it is a perment bond use a silicone like the brand SeaLife is good for tank hatches.
__________________
1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#5
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So what holds the tank in place instead of foam?
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#6
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i think the factory set up is 3/4 or 1 pvc,which is a small drain and easily clogged, i've seen where you take 1 1/2 pvc and split it down the middle and glass this in the bottom. it is the same height as the 3/4 adn a lot more drainage.
joe, i think you can use foam if you coat the tank with the coal tar epoxy. |
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#7
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I used 1-1/4" schedule 20 PVC from the depot, perfect fit.
__________________
1980 V20 w/1979 Johnson 150 |
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#8
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Quote:
You are correct about the 5200 its one heck of a bond and expensive,I just figured I will never have to access the tank again. Time will tell :) But I did foam the sucker in ! ![]() Finish with Gel Coat
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