High voltage over 3500 rpms

[turbinedoctor]

Here is what I got from the TECH dept at CDI.

It may not answer you direct question but maybe it will give you something else to check or think about.

Turbo


Durwood,

Yes, you can install a 194-5279 regulator/rectifier to take the place of your rectifier.

But, that may not solve the root of your issue.

The #1 cause of all battery voltage issues is the battery. #2 is its connections. #3 is the regulator/rectifier. #4, the stator.

The battery and/or its connections often causes the regulator (and in some cases, the stator) to become faulty, thus often creating more than one faulty component (Example: Bad battery causing the regulator to become faulty).

1. Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure all connections are corrosion-free & tight.

2. If no change, remove all batteries & try a single, known-good, fully-charged off a battery charger, 850+CCA, charging (NOT a deep cycle), non-maintenance free battery (NOT a closed-case battery). Make sure the battery has vent caps on its top. Make sure to charge any battery off of a battery charger BEFORE installing. NEVER allow the stator to charge a battery. The stator is designed to keep the battery's voltage at an optimum charge. It's not designed to charge a dead or weak battery. Recheck all connections, making sure they are corrosion-free & tight. NEVER jump start a battery while an outboard engine is running. This can cause damage to the regulator/rectifier. Always use a battery charger to charge a battery. If no battery charger is available, the regulator/rectifier's red wire may be disconnected while jump starting to avoid damaging the regulator/rectifier.

3. If no change, if you have DVA equipment, DVA (peak voltage) across the stator's yellow wires at idle. Voltage should be between 17-25V DVA. If not, possible faulty stator.

4. If the stator checks good, replace the regulator/rectifier.


Please contact us again if you have any further questions.

Thank you,
CDI Tech Support

[Carl]

Alright,

I took some pics of the powerhead as noted below.





I have to check the grounds and connections. I ran out of time.

I found both the rectifer $27 and the regulator $148 on ebay. The voltage regultor is a discontinued part from Mercury.

[Carl]

I had time this weekend to dig into my voltage issue. I have concluded my motor does not have a voltage regulator. It has a rectifier - but no regulator. What is the right thing to do? Should I add a regulator, or another battery just to run the electronics? Or something else?

Again - any advice / direction is appreciated

Thanks

[turbinedoctor]

I'm in the same boat as you, mine goes upto 16 volts which is higher then what I want. If it gets any worse I will probably go with adding a regulator from CDI.

Turbo

[Carl]

I am resurrecting this thread again since I experienced similar problems again this year, but worse. He is my situation. Last year as noted earlier in this thread, I had high voltage and for the remainder of the season, I always turned on all the electric accessories (lights, radio, fish/depth finder, and GPS) which would lower the voltage a bit. I figured I would do the same this year. Fast forward 1 year - I replaced the rectifier which was evident when the Tach went to 0 at ignition and then not move when the engine was running.

I did a shakedown run on Saturday and noticed the voltage was pegged at 18 after 10 minutes of running at 3K rpms. Again this is with lights radio - etc all on. The voltage was around 13 for the first 10 minutes. The problem seems even worse this year. Could this be due to the new rectifier allowing more voltage to the battery? I need to fix this correctly this time.

The engine does not have a voltage regulator installed.

Any additional help and advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Engine info:

Mariner 150 HP
Model # 0A906046
Serial # 7150726


Carl