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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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 The pinion nut is a one time use lock-nut that holds the pinion support/yoke on. It's torque in most modern axles determines pinion rotational torque. There is a crush sleeve inside the fiff in between the 2 pinion bearings and by tightening the pinion nut it crush's the sleeve until the desired rotational torque is achieved to turn the pinion. This way the pinion is held steady under all loads. Too loose and the pinion walks up and down and wipes out the gears, too tight and the bearings will be crushed. Some diffs use a shim arrangement and all you have to do is install a new nut and torque it down. If you have a crush sleeve you have to torque it till the rotational torque is reached. If you overtighten it you MUST install a new crush sleeve and start over with the torquing. If you replace a pinion seal you replace the pinion nut and torque it to roughly 180-225 foot pounds(depending upon differential) as most crush sleeves require roughly 200-240 foot pounds of torque with a new pinion locking nut to compress. And yes it is FERM(actual name is FERMAN), but I let the eye getaway with THERM since this is his place and all  . 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			You learn something new every day......thanks for the lesson Ferm.
		 
				__________________ *************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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 Hey if any of you have those clear plastic lense covers for your headlights if they get foggy 3M makes a great kit for repairing them. I did those last night and they look like new and the kit is only $19 from auto zone. You onloy need a drill and some tape and it takes about 30 minutes to sand them down and buff them out. | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			OK I now have the axle out and it was actually pretty easy and I also found the directions in the repair manual. It is the axle seal that was leaking but now I think I have to take it to a machine shop to have this compression ring removed. Unless someone knows of away to get it off. I thought about beating it off and then just replacing it but I'm worried I might tear something else up. Anyone ever done that or have a way of removing this compression ring (thats what I call it).
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I'm lost.
		 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Well FERM, not from your post, but from still's.
		 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Still, are you messin' with the stuff near the universals or the stuff near the tires?
		 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
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			From his posts he is doing an axle shaft seal which is the tire side.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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