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#1
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In your 3rd pic; you could cut off (shorten) the center stringer (where the bow almost hits now) closer to the winch area and still be able to attach the cross brace to the outside frame rails. If you cut about 3" forward of the U bolts looks like that would give you plenty of clearance.
Those tongue ends are made to fit various length trailers so they could be shortened to fit your boat needs.
__________________
Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
Last edited by garagenc; 02-01-2009 at 04:35 PM. |
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#2
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might just be the angle, but the rig looks tongue heavy. could you slide the winch post back 6 inches and that would give you more clearance. if not , how bout putting a piece of starboard to deflect the occasional keel hit.
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#3
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On my Trailer I install "Keel Rollers" it reduces stress on the bed or rollers in your setup , I have four Keel rollers like this on mine. My boat rolls off and on with ease not a single issue period
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=204 Also I did notice as mentioned it seems like your Boat can be shifted back on the Trailer ! |
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#4
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You may be able to move your front rollers closer to the center of the trailer to raise the bow.
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#5
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Looks to me that the whole trailer is just to short? The rear rollers should be right at the transom, yours looks to short and the boat over hangs. This is why the bow is so far foward and hitting.
Short of getting a different trailer the cutting of the tounge is about all you can do. Or you can get a bolt on roller (a wide one) and add it to the tounge so that when the bow gets there it will go on a roller and lift a bit. Good Luck
__________________
1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#6
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your trailer is to short for that boat you need the transom supported or it will cause stress and cracks in the transom.
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#7
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you guys might be on to something there. I just checked the gallery and although there are a handful of trailers with the transom hanging a foot or so off the last roller, the vast majority are supported to the very end. I pguess I should look into doing something about it. I know the last owner had the boat almost 20 years but he lived very close to the water and did not tow it as much as I will be.
There is room on the frame to slide the whole last set of rollers back to probably get the last set of rollers pretty close to the transom. The darn things are infinitely adjustable between moving front to back, and in and out...hurts my head figuring all the possible combinations.
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1986 V-20 1986 Yamaha 150 HP |
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#8
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looks to me in the 3rd pic,you mite be able, to relocate the front cross bar to the upper bolt holes an giving you the clearence you need to make the other adjustments needed
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#9
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http://www.loadrite.com/Support/Main...t_Trailers/76/
Information from LoadRite on how to adjust a trailer. They recommend max 8" from last roller to the transom. I think I have more than that.
__________________
1986 V-20 1986 Yamaha 150 HP |
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#10
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that trailer looks simular to the one I had under my V when I bought it. I couldn't get it to fit in a way that satisfied me. I was going to convert it to bunk style( which I prefer, don't need rollers around here) But I couldn't figure a way to adjust the board placement to where it wasn't sitting on a strake. I have converted several trailers like yours to bunk style by simply removing the rollers and the support arms( the curved aluminum arms), leave the swiveling bracket to attach 2X6's to. Just cut those small rusted u bolts and uses the holes for your lag bolts to go thru. Use two sets of boards, one set for the front, one set for the rear. You can get away with the boards over hanging the bracket by at least a foot, so it can lengthen your trailer overall lenght by just using the boards. It is going to drop the boat on the trailer, so you may have to push the boards in closer to the center to keep the boat off the frame and fenders. Go ahead and prepare to replace every U bolt you touch, they usuallly break before coming off. You may also have to reposition the axle to get the weight right. I wish I had a pic of a trailer that I changed over, its easy to understand how I changed it if you could see one. When I worked at the SeaRay dealership, I changed probably 20 roller trailers( all old yard trailers) over to bunk style using this method. The roller trailers were causing damage to the new boats when we launched and loaded the boats, besides having to clean the roller marks off. Think about it hard before you do it, measure everything before you start to see if its going to fit, if you don't need a rolelr trailer for your ramp, this could be a viable alternative
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