Transom.....son of a b!&*(

[nymack66]

My advice is to cut the skin see my post very important where you cut it, I ran into the same problem solid wood at the bottom, Nothing beats removing all the wood this is very important since the new transom will be much stronger by gluing it self to the bottom of the Boat this is its strongest point of contact.
Its no big deal attaching the skin see my post if I can do so can you.
I use Resin (Gel) from Auto Zone and mat& resin from Boaters World
The time and effort you save by removing the skin is worth it.

[shaneburris74]

NYMack,
Alright..I'm still seriously considering it....more to follow. I gotta get some pics up too. Later guys.

[tsubaki]

Originally Posted by nymack66

My advice is to cut the skin

I cringe (like ice water on a chipped tooth) when I think about it, it's just me. I consider that a last resort. Probably from a lack of experience with fiberglass.

[nymack66]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

I cringe (like ice water on a chipped tooth) when I think about it, it's just me. I consider that a last resort. Probably from a lack of experience with fiberglass.

I will definitely not recommend removing the skin as the first and only option, However but if you have a partial rotten transom like this and mine, removing the skin is the only way to go.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that all traces of wood be completely removed since the new transom needs to glue it self to the bottom of the Boat
This part of the Transom to me this is the foundation and the strongest part of the Transom.
Please be sure to use Acetone as the final clean up agent since it removes all traces of contamination and old mold from the surface then brush fresh resin on the inside area let it dry or to a tack then pour !
Use thin roller brush for acetone and resin.

[mauryc]

"Am I just being a pansy and I need to just keep chipping away at it?"
Your not. Do your drill extensions reach the entire depth of the transom? If so, don't force them, let them do the work. Drill as much as you can in an area then use "whatever means possible" to loosen the wood chips/fibers. It will take some time. The flat blade I used acted like an ax and I was able to get the wood out in little slivers. Not efficient, but it worked. I had some sore arms when it was all over but I bottemed out on fiberglass across the entire width of transom.
Maury

[msbhammer]

Dont remove the outer skin. It will never be as strong.

[nymack66]

Originally Posted by msbhammer

Dont remove the outer skin. It will never be as strong.

Not if its done correctly, On mine I layer multiple layers of mat from the inside across the cutout sealing and adding extra strength and thickness to the skin in such a way it appears and tested stronger than the original. Hey if mine ever cracks or shows any issues I stand corrected.
On the morning of the pour I again coated the insides with resin let dry then pour the Arjay.
An old timer did a test on my Transom before and after my stress testing and told me there is zero flex on my transom.
All I am saying is if your transom is completely rotten then don't remove the skin, if you have a one half rotten and solid at the bottom then remove the skin..

[Stillrunning]

I still think that taking the boat apart is the best way to replace the transom on a v20. The hardest part is figuring out how to hoist the inner section out of the hull. We had mine apart in a day and this gives you acces to every thing below the flooring like the stringers. I wish I had replaced the flooring at the same time when I had access to the bottom of the floor.

[RWilson2526]

[quote=nymack66;136768]
An old timer did a test on my Transom before and after my stress testing and told me there is zero flex on my transom.
quote]

What's the procedure for testing for flex? I have pushed and pulled on mine and all seems stiff but I always wondered if I needed to do a better inspection....(although I'm a little scared!!!)