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#1
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BC, is it the steering pivot that is the problem or is it what MJ is talking about, the cable binding in the tilt tube?
I'm reading you to be talking about the steering pivot. What kind of motor are we talking about? I don't think these things get better without digging into them and it's usually a big job. I've got my Yamaha in pieces and since I have gone his far I am gong to take apart the pivot an replace the nylon bushings as a precaution. Whatever the case good luck with it. |
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#2
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BC had that happen on an old outboard once that sat up all winter. i took a 2x4 about 6 ft long and strapped it to the foot. this gave me a lot more leverage and worked it slowly and a little at a time, finally got it free..
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#3
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monkey you're right it is NOT the steering cable. It is the pivot tube. It will turn when I push the motor, but it takes a lot of pressure to do it. It is a '92 200 merc. 2.5L. The bolts that hold it all together are just balls of rust, so if it comes down to taking it apart, I don't know if it would survive, and then I'd be looking at a new E-tec, which wouldn't be a bad thing, but again.... NO$$$$$$$$$$$$$
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Captain Jon |
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#4
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I got it freed up a little today while working in the rain. I can turn it side to side by pushing and pulling it with one arm. It still takes some umph though. I think it will be good for another season at least. I'll buy a new helm and continue to work on it to keep it loose and possibly get it more loose.
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Captain Jon |
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#5
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Research the steering type you are using.
When I went to replace mine, seems I found no manufacturers willing to suggest using anything except hydraulic steering on motors 150hp and over. Not having the money also, I opted to replace with the same that I had with the intention to save money for hydraulic later (hopefully). I've had to on a couple of other boats do like MJ, phat, Monkey and csvencer said. On certain boat and motor situations, removing the old cable may require unbolting the motor after freeing it up with the 2x4 then cleaning the tube, then honing the tube with a butterfly bit wrapped with waterproof sandpaper or even a very large masonry bit, then polishing with the brass shotgun cleaner. The problem should get worse and require doing at least the above.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#6
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Now that you move it pump alot of grease into the rod pushing out the older grease. Work it some more and it should get easier. Grease it up again pushing out more of the now older grease and this should do the trick. Keep it greased up real good and who knows you might get several more years out of it.
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#7
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You've got to reem the tube out and get the old hard grease out of the tube. Pipe cleaner on the end of a electric drill will take care of problem in short order. You have to pull the steering cable to clean the inside of the tube.
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