![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well, the steering cable is fine, it's the cylinder that the engine sits on that is stiff. My mech. said I need a new helm ($50-$60) but that would only work as long as I can get the engine turnning free again. With the cable un-hooked, it takes a LOT of muscle to turn the engine. I've loaded it up with grease and have been spraying penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the tube, per my mech's opinion, in hopes to get it freed up at least a little. The second option for fixing it would be to install a hydraulic system ($1000-$1500) that would overcome the stiffness in the tube. One problem with that is....... NO MONEY!!!!!!!!!! I'll be taking donations all weekend if anyone is feeling generous. :)
__________________
Captain Jon |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Do you have a grease fitting on the steering tilt tube? Also make sure yet get all the fittings on the motor that grease the pivot point. There are a bunch on my johnson that I missed the first go around as I needed to push the motor back and forth to see them all. As far as the hydraulic goes, you can get a system setup for a lot less than a grand, more like 500-700 if you search around. Might be worth the investment.
-Svence
__________________
1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
You are going to gave to get that cable out! Then you can use a shot gun cleaner to clean the tube. I had to do this before, the tube is rotting from the inside out and the rust is mixing with the grease and causing it to bind.
They also have a oiling system instead of grease, I am sure this is much better, as greas atracts dirt and makes for problems. You better get to it soon! In the winter when I use to have that issue, I would pull the cable in the fall clean it and bag it, in the spring I would clean the tube and reassemble, always avoiding this, I had one problem I wasn't going to let it happen again!!
__________________
1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
BC, is it the steering pivot that is the problem or is it what MJ is talking about, the cable binding in the tilt tube?
I'm reading you to be talking about the steering pivot. What kind of motor are we talking about? I don't think these things get better without digging into them and it's usually a big job. I've got my Yamaha in pieces and since I have gone his far I am gong to take apart the pivot an replace the nylon bushings as a precaution. Whatever the case good luck with it. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
BC had that happen on an old outboard once that sat up all winter. i took a 2x4 about 6 ft long and strapped it to the foot. this gave me a lot more leverage and worked it slowly and a little at a time, finally got it free..
|
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
monkey you're right it is NOT the steering cable. It is the pivot tube. It will turn when I push the motor, but it takes a lot of pressure to do it. It is a '92 200 merc. 2.5L. The bolts that hold it all together are just balls of rust, so if it comes down to taking it apart, I don't know if it would survive, and then I'd be looking at a new E-tec, which wouldn't be a bad thing, but again.... NO$$$$$$$$$$$$$
__________________
Captain Jon |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
I got it freed up a little today while working in the rain. I can turn it side to side by pushing and pulling it with one arm. It still takes some umph though. I think it will be good for another season at least. I'll buy a new helm and continue to work on it to keep it loose and possibly get it more loose.
__________________
Captain Jon |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|